From the prismatic Pleats Please collection to the modular, three-dimensional garments crafted from recycled plastic bottles in his Reality Lab, the captivating fashions by Japanese designer Issey Miyake are all about movement.
Born in Hiroshima, Miyake studied graphic design at Tama Art University in Tokyo before relocating to Paris in 1965, where he studied couture and cut his teeth working for Guy Laroche and Hubert de Givenchy. In 1969, he moved to New York, where he worked for Geoffrey Beene. He returned to Tokyo in 1970 to found his first solo venture, the Miyake Design Studio. It wasn’t until the 1990s, though, that the designer had his breakthrough moment with experimentations in pleating. Some of his earliest explorations were for choreographer William Forsythe’s Frankfurt Ballet Company, with the 1991 performance of The Loss of Small Detail featuring costumes Miyake designed with pleats that complemented and transformed the movement of the dancers.
Though long a staple in couture — from delicate women’s skirts to men’s suit pants — pleats took on new life in Miyake’s hands. By using a heat press to cure his fabrics after his garments are stitched, Miyake was able to maintain the accordion structure of the pleat, turning a series of folds into sculptural, often futuristic forms unbound by the shape of the human body. In 1993, Miyake debuted “garment pleating” in his Pleats Please line, in which the clothes are constructed at a size that is larger than what is intended for the finished product. The pleats are then created — a process that involves folding and ironing and is separate from the joining of seams — and individual pieces are subsequently hand-fed into a heat press. The pleats are permanent and the garments can be worn and washed without losing their shape.
Miyake’s pleats run the gamut in scale, which enabled him to evoke dramatic, sharp silhouettes and flowy movements in equal measure. In essence, he created an entirely new material whose iterations are infinite — a feat of technology as much as fashion.
Other innovations include Miyake’s 1997 Just Before collection, which introduced a series of tube-knit dresses that could be cut as desired, reducing both work and resources. His Reality Lab now investigates new materials, such as a fully recycled polyester. Miyake’s prowess, in fact, captured another iconic figure in the tech world: Steve Jobs, for whom the designer made hundreds of identical black turtlenecks, the late Apple founder’s sartorial signature.
Find a collection of vintage Issey Miyake day dresses, jackets, shirts and other clothing on 1stDibs.
ISSEY MIYAKE black polyester 2015 PLEATED FEDORA Hat One Size
By Issey Miyake
Located in Zürich, CH
This 100% authentic Issey Miyake pleated fedora in black is a sophisticated expression of the brand’s innovative approach to texture and design. Crafted from lightweight pleated poly...
ISSEY MIYAKE black polyester 2016 WAVE PLEATED FEDORA Hat One Size
By Issey Miyake
Located in Zürich, CH
This 100% authentic Issey Miyake Wave pleated fedora hat in black is a striking example of the brand’s innovative approach to texture and sculptural design. Crafted from lightweight ...
ISSEY MIYAKE black polyester FRINGE TRIM PLEATED FEDORA Hat 58
By Issey Miyake
Located in Zürich, CH
This 100% authentic Issey Miyake fringe trim pleated fedora in black showcases the brand’s signature innovation in texture and form. Crafted with Issey Miyake’s iconic pleated constr...
ISSEY MIYAKE black polyester FRINGE TRIM PLEATED FEDORA Hat 58
By Issey Miyake
Located in Zürich, CH
This 100% authentic Issey Miyake fringe trim pleated fedora in black showcases the brand’s signature innovation in texture and form. Crafted with Issey Miyake’s iconic pleated constr...
Rare Issey Miyake Plastic "Cup" Hat Runway 1989's Collector's
By Issey Miyake
Located in New York, NY
Rare ,one of a kind 1989's Issey Miyake hat. This hat can bee seen on youtube video featuring Issey Miyake under: Fashion Fall 89 and Love Ball New ...
Large Black Straw Cartwheel Picture Hat with Dotted Chenille Veil – M, 1950s
Located in Tucson, AZ
Appropriate for a multitude of occasions from mourning to tea to church to cocktails, this magnificent cartwheel hat gushes both propriety and drama thanks to its foot-long chenille ...
DOLCE & GABBANA Size XS Navy Wool Hats
By Dolce & Gabbana
Located in San Francisco, CA
Dolce & Gabbana beanie is crafted from premium navy wool in a cozy knit. Featuring a sleek design with only subtle logo tags. Made in Italy. Good Pre-Owned Condition. Signs of wear. ...
Lanvin Alber Elbaz Black Sun Hat Navy Ribbon Band, 2006
By Lanvin Paris
Located in Boca Raton, FL
After serving as creative director for several other prominent fashion houses such as Guy Laroche, Alber Elbaz led the House of Lanvin from 2001-2015, a decade and a half in which ma...
$250
Size: none; one size fits most
Victorian Black Velvet and Silk Rose Mourning Bonnet w Velvet Ties - O/S, 1880s
Located in Tucson, AZ
Worn during the Victorian lady’s two-year mourning period, this petite hat telegraphed propriety and solemnity without sacrificing style. Featuring a stiff skullcap adorned with silk velvet bows and gathers, it is accentuated by silk ribbon roses. Best of all, despite its small size it can be perched on the head without the use of hat pins thanks to its velvet bonnet ties. Stiff Victorian half hat...
CHANEL black cotton 22P PEARL CC Baseball Cap Hat 56 - 58
By Chanel
Located in Zürich, CH
100% authentic Chanel baseball cap in black canvas cotton (100%). Crafted from structured cotton canvas, it features a classic six-panel silhouett...
$295
Size: none; size 21" or 6 3/4 US
Black Sequin Cocktail Fascinator Hat with Tulle Cage Veil - S, 1950s
Located in Tucson, AZ
A knockout accessory for New Years Eve or a black tie event, this cocktail hat is as petite as a fascinator but packs the punch of a wide brim. Both glitzy and understated, it balances a glittering sequin skull cap with an alluring cage veil for an unforgettably sophisticated look. Rigid oval calot cap with pavé black sequins; attached tulle birdcage veil...
1950s Flo-Raye Black Egret Feather Cartwheel Hat w/ Velvet Structured Crown
Located in Gresham, OR
1950s Flo-Raye Black Egret Feather Cartwheel Hat w/ Velvet Structured Crown: Spiral curled feathers encircle a structured cap, jutting out to create a ha...
PACO RABANNE Museum Worthy Showpiece Angel Wings Sequin Hat
By Paco Rabanne
Located in New York, NY
PACO RABANNE Museum Worthy Showpiece Angel Wings Sequin Top Hat Each sequence carefully overlapped to mimic the texture of feathers. No label .Sourced from France many years ago R...
1940s I Magnin Goth Straw Cartwheel Hat w Low Crown & Wispy Feather Trim
By I Magnin and Co
Located in Gresham, OR
1940s I Magnin Black Fine Straw Cartwheel Hat w Low Crown & Wispy Egret Feather Trim: Crown of hat is artfully crushed at sewn in that position. Wrapped at crown with black tulle wh...
Incredible 1960s Vintage Antenna Fur Rhinestone Hat
Located in San Diego, CA
Fantastic 1960s hat by "Milady," by "O'Neils. Super soft fur material, with intricate middle piece. Two dangling rhinestone "antennas" at front. In great condition. Approximately Siz...
$1,200
Size: One size fits all w pins
1940s Laddie Northridge Rare Ethereal Black Singed Ostrich Feather "Cloud" Hat
Located in Gresham, OR
1940s Laddie Northridge Rare Ethereal Black Singed Ostrich Feather "Cloud" Hat: Laddie Northridge was a couture custom hat maker (occasionally producing matching bags and clothing) ...
CHANEL black nylon 2019 COCO NEIGE SNOWFLAKE Trapper Hat S
By Chanel
Located in Zürich, CH
100% authentic Chanel trapper hat in black quilted and padded polyester (100%) embellished with golden snowflake CC patch. Lined in black cotton (100%). Has been worn and is in excel...
ISSEY MIYAKE PLEATS PLEASE Lemon yellow raffia straw weave Moroccan hat Rare
By Issey Miyake
Located in Hong Kong, NT
ISSEY MIYAKE PLEATS PLEASE Lemon yellow raffia straw weave Moroccan hat Rare Reference: TGAS/A02729 Brand: Issey Miyake Material: Polyester Color: Yellow Pattern: Solid Extra Details...
ISSEY MIYAKE PLEATS PLEASE yellow raffia straw woven pointed moroccan hat
By Issey Miyake
Located in Hong Kong, NT
ISSEY MIYAKE PLEATS PLEASE yellow raffia straw woven pointed moroccan hat Reference: TGAS/A02729 Brand: Issey Miyake Material: Polyester Color: Yellow Pattern: Solid Extra Details: Y...
ISSEY MIYAKE Size L Black Blue Polyester Inverse Beanie
By Issey Miyake
Located in San Francisco, CA
ISSEY MIYAKE beanie comes in a black & blue polyester featuring a inverse color design. Made in Japan. Very Good Pre-Owned Condition. Marked: One Size Measurements: Opening: 20 in...
ISSEY MIYAKE PLEATS PLEASE light grey pleated wide brim statement boater hat
By Issey Miyake
Located in Hong Kong, NT
ISSEY MIYAKE PLEATS PLEASE light grey pleated wide brim statement boater hat Reference: TGAS/A02724 Brand: Issey Miyake Material: Fabric Color: Grey Pattern: Solid Extra Detail...
ISSEY MIYAKE PLEATS PLEASE yellow raffia straw woven pointed Moroccan hat
By Issey Miyake
Located in Hong Kong, NT
ISSEY MIYAKE PLEATS PLEASE yellow raffia straw woven pointed Moroccan hat Reference: TGAS/A02729 Brand: Issey Miyake Material: Polyester Color: Yellow Pattern: Solid Extra Detai...
ISSEY MIYAKE PLEATS PLEASE yellow raffia straw woven pointed moroccan hat
By Issey Miyake
Located in Hong Kong, NT
ISSEY MIYAKE PLEATS PLEASE Raffia straw woven upper. Morrocan inspired. Elongated pointed top. Material: Black grosgrain trimming along lining Color: Yellow Fit: Stretch fit. Made ...
Issey Miyake Pleats Please ''Love'' Cartoon Emoji Hat
By Issey Miyake
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Resurrection Vintage is excited to offer a vintage Issey Miyake Pleats Please pink hat with an attached white speech bubble that states "LOVE" in red lettering with black cord trim. ...
runway ISSEY MIYAKE SS15 orbital green structure pleated fascinator hat rare
By Issey Miyake
Located in Hong Kong, NT
runway ISSEY MIYAKE SS15 orbital green structure pleated fascinator hat rare ISSEY MIYAKE EXTREMELY RARE AND UNIQUE DESIGN Green pleated structural hat. O...
runway ISSEY MIYAKE SS15 orbital green structure pleated fascinator hat rare
By Issey Miyake
Located in Hong Kong, NT
ISSEY MIYAKE Green pleated structural hat • Orbital brimmed design • Pleats are slightly moldable to different shapes • Can wear back to front for different effect • Made in Japan C...
ISSEY MIYAKE PLEATS PLEASE black white architectural dual layer raffia straw hat
By Issey Miyake
Located in Hong Kong, NT
ISSEY MIYAKE PLEATS PLEASE Black raffia straw knit. White circle at top. Architectural dual layered design. Statement party hat. Grosgrain trimmed along lining. Made in Japan. CONDI...
ISSEY MIYAKE PLEATS PLEASE black draped spiral strips raffia straw hat
By Issey Miyake
Located in Hong Kong, NT
ISSEY MIYAKE PLEATS PLEASE Black raffia straw knit. Round pullover cap. Draped spiral dangling strips. Statement party hat. Grosgrain trimmed along lining. Made in Japan. CONDITION ...
ISSEY MIYAKE PLEATS PLEASE black structural tube club kid statement hat
By Issey Miyake
Located in Hong Kong, NT
ISSEY MIYAKE PLEATS PLEASE Black. Wool cap. Plastic tubular structured design. Club Kid inspired. Pointed top. Black grosgrain trimming along lining. Made in ...