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Ruby Crab

Vintage 14k Yellow Gold Ruby and Diamond Crab Brooch
Vintage 14k Yellow Gold Ruby and Diamond Crab Brooch

Vintage 14k Yellow Gold Ruby and Diamond Crab Brooch

Located in New York, NY

This vintage crab brooch is a wonderfully expressive and highly collectible figural piece, set with 0.46ctw of rubies and 0.15ctw of diamonds in a warm 14k yellow gold setting.

Category

20th Century Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Silvorra 6.4ct Ruby & Diamond Convertible Crab Brooch and Pendant in 925 Silver
Silvorra 6.4ct Ruby & Diamond Convertible Crab Brooch and Pendant in 925 Silver

Silvorra 6.4ct Ruby & Diamond Convertible Crab Brooch and Pendant in 925 Silver

Located in New York, NY

This whimsical 6.4 Carat ruby and diamond crab brooch is crafted in 925 sterling silver.

Category

21st Century and Contemporary American Contemporary Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Silver, Sterling Silver

18K Rose Gold Crab Diamond Pendant Necklace with Rubies and Abalone Shell
18K Rose Gold Crab Diamond Pendant Necklace with Rubies and Abalone Shell

18K Rose Gold Crab Diamond Pendant Necklace with Rubies and Abalone Shell

By Althoff Jewelry

Located in Hong Kong, HK

18K Rose Gold Crab Diamond Pendant Necklace with Rubies Length: 16.5"/18" 7 Abalone Shells - 0.51 CT 18 Colored Diamonds - 0.17 CT 2 Rubies - 0.03 CT 18K Rose Gold - 5.56 GM Crab i...

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Hong Kong Modern Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Rose Gold

Cabuchon Aquamarine with Ruby and Pearl Crab Brooch Set in 18K Gold Settings
Cabuchon Aquamarine with Ruby and Pearl Crab Brooch Set in 18K Gold Settings

Cabuchon Aquamarine with Ruby and Pearl Crab Brooch Set in 18K Gold Settings

Located in Bangkok, TH

Cabuchon Aquamarine 32.54 carats, Cabuchon Ruby 0.53 carat, Pearl Brooch set in 18 Karat Gold Settings Width: 6.5 cm Length: 5.4 cm "Since we first opened doors in 1980 our store...

Category

2010s Thai Modern Brooches

Materials

Aquamarine, Pearl, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold

Ruby and Diamond Small Crab Motif Brooch / Pendant Set in 14 Karat Yellow Gold
Ruby and Diamond Small Crab Motif Brooch / Pendant Set in 14 Karat Yellow Gold

Ruby and Diamond Small Crab Motif Brooch / Pendant Set in 14 Karat Yellow Gold

Located in Scottsdale, AZ

The body of the crab is adorned with vibrant red rubies, creating a striking and eye-catching display.

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Contemporary Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Crab Sea Cancer Sapphire Green Pave & Blue Opal 18K White Gold Animal Ring
Crab Sea Cancer Sapphire Green Pave & Blue Opal 18K White Gold Animal Ring

Crab Sea Cancer Sapphire Green Pave & Blue Opal 18K White Gold Animal Ring

By Unbranded

Located in Tysons, VA

Dimensions: 4.10x4.10x3.00cm Color: 18K Rose Gold Materials: "177 Blue Sapphire 2.53 CT 17 White Diamonds 0.13 CT 20 Green Garnet 0.37 CT 1 MXOL 9.07 CT 2 Ruby 0.10 CT 18KR 19.51 GM ...

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Garnet, Opal, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Rose Gold, White Gold

Recent Sales

Yvonne Leon Contemporary Crab Earring 18 Karat Yellow Gold Diamonds and Ruby
Yvonne Leon Contemporary Crab Earring 18 Karat Yellow Gold Diamonds and Ruby

Yvonne Leon Contemporary Crab Earring 18 Karat Yellow Gold Diamonds and Ruby

By Yvonne Leon

Located in Paris, FR

Earring in 18K Yellow Gold 5,2 gr Diamonds 0,40 carats Ruby 0,10 carats Black Diamonds 0,04 carats Sold by Unit Alpa System

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Dangle Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Black Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

18 Carat Yellow Gold Crab Brooch Lapel Pin with Diamonds and Ruby Eyes
18 Carat Yellow Gold Crab Brooch Lapel Pin with Diamonds and Ruby Eyes

18 Carat Yellow Gold Crab Brooch Lapel Pin with Diamonds and Ruby Eyes

Located in Idar-Oberstein, DE

Beautifully rendered in 18ct yellow gold our crab has been exquisitely set with a wash of brilliant cut F-if 1.03ct diamonds highlighting its dappled shell in elegant detail. 0.04ct ...

Category

Early 2000s German Contemporary Brooches

Materials

White Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Renato Cipullo Coral Gold Bracelet
Renato Cipullo Coral Gold Bracelet

Renato Cipullo Coral Gold Bracelet

By Renato Cipullo

Located in New York, NY

Renato Cipullo "Return to the Sea" collection bracelet in 18k yellow gold with natural coral, shell and antique coin, gold shell and crab. Set with rubies and sapphires and .15cts of...

Category

21st Century and Contemporary American Contemporary Modern Bracelets

Materials

Blue Sapphire, Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Vintage 18K Yellow Gold Ruby Crab Brooch 9.9G
Vintage 18K Yellow Gold Ruby Crab Brooch 9.9G

Vintage 18K Yellow Gold Ruby Crab Brooch 9.9G

Located in Los Angeles, CA

Vintage 18K Yellow Gold Ruby Crab Brooch 9.9G Specifications: · Pre-Owned (Great condition) · Metal: 18K Yellow Gold (Au 76.26%) · Weight: 9.9Gr · Mai...

Category

Late 20th Century American Artisan Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

7 Carat Sapphire, Diamond and Ruby Crab Pin Brooch in Yellow Gold
7 Carat Sapphire, Diamond and Ruby Crab Pin Brooch in Yellow Gold

7 Carat Sapphire, Diamond and Ruby Crab Pin Brooch in Yellow Gold

By Tiffany & Co.

Located in London, England

A Tiffany & Co. sapphire, diamond and ruby crab pin brooch in 18-karat yellow gold, circa 1990.

Category

20th Century British Brooches

Materials

Sapphire, Yellow Gold

Antique Diamond, Mabé Pearl and Ruby Crab Brooch in Silver on Gold
Antique Diamond, Mabé Pearl and Ruby Crab Brooch in Silver on Gold

Antique Diamond, Mabé Pearl and Ruby Crab Brooch in Silver on Gold

Located in London, England

The eyes are two deep red rubies. This crab would be a great addition to any lapel, scarf or even hat and will sparkle beautifully in the evening.

Category

Antique Early 1900s British Victorian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, Gold, Silver

0.25ctw Ruby Diamond Crab Brooch 14k Yellow Gold Nautical Pin
0.25ctw Ruby Diamond Crab Brooch 14k Yellow Gold Nautical Pin

0.25ctw Ruby Diamond Crab Brooch 14k Yellow Gold Nautical Pin

Located in McLeansville, NC

Gemstone Information: - Natural Rubies - Total Carats - 0.22ctw Cut - Round Brilliant Color - Red Treatment - Routinely Enhanced - Natural Diamonds - Total Carats - 0.03ctw Cut - R...

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Vintage 18 Karat Yellow Gold Ruby Diamond and Emerald Articulated Crab Brooch
Vintage 18 Karat Yellow Gold Ruby Diamond and Emerald Articulated Crab Brooch

Vintage 18 Karat Yellow Gold Ruby Diamond and Emerald Articulated Crab Brooch

Located in Birmingham, AL

Stunning Crab Brooch! This piece is made in 18K yellow Gold this piece features French Cut Rubies and Diamonds for the crab's body, ruby eyes, ruby, diamond and emerald legs and ruby...

Category

20th Century Unknown Contemporary Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, 18k Gold

18K Yellow-White Gold Crab Brooch 'Cancer sign' with Diamonds Rubies, Sapphires
18K Yellow-White Gold Crab Brooch 'Cancer sign' with Diamonds Rubies, Sapphires

18K Yellow-White Gold Crab Brooch 'Cancer sign' with Diamonds Rubies, Sapphires

Located in Crema, Cremona

18K yellow and white gold crab brooch with Diamonds, Rubies and Sapphires.

Category

Vintage 1960s Italian Artist Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold

A Buccellati Gold Crab Brooch.

A Buccellati Gold Crab Brooch.

By Buccellati

Located in New York, NY

A brushed gold crab brooch with cabochon ruby eyes, in 18k. M. Buccellati.

Category

Vintage 1950s Italian Brooches

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold

Fisher & Co. 1960's Diamond Ruby 18 Karat Yellow Gold Vintage Crab Brooch
Fisher & Co. 1960's Diamond Ruby 18 Karat Yellow Gold Vintage Crab Brooch

Fisher & Co. 1960's Diamond Ruby 18 Karat Yellow Gold Vintage Crab Brooch

Located in Philadelphia, PA

Designed as a stylized crab with dimensional features Body features stipple texture with high polish legs Accented by round cut rubies bezel set as eyes Weighing approximately 0.20 c...

Category

Vintage 1960s Modern Brooches

Materials

Pearl, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels 1980's Diamond Ruby 18K Yellow Gold Cancer Zodiac Crab Brooch
Van Cleef & Arpels 1980's Diamond Ruby 18K Yellow Gold Cancer Zodiac Crab Brooch

Van Cleef & Arpels 1980's Diamond Ruby 18K Yellow Gold Cancer Zodiac Crab Brooch

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Philadelphia, PA

Designed as a stylized crab with dimensional features - representing the astrological sign of Cancer Comprised of an abstract geometric motif body atop stipple texture and cartoonish...

Category

Vintage 1980s Modern Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

M. Buccellati 18K Yellow Gold Crab Fur Clip Brooch
M. Buccellati 18K Yellow Gold Crab Fur Clip Brooch

M. Buccellati 18K Yellow Gold Crab Fur Clip Brooch

By Buccellati

Located in New York, NY

Buccellati 18K yellow gold Segrinato crab fur clip brooch set with 2 ruby eyes Approximate Weight: 31.5 grams Approximate Measurement: 39.1mm x 63.7mm (1.46” x 2.52”) Hallmarks: M...

Category

Vintage 1970s Italian Modern Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold

M. Buccellati 18K Yellow Gold Crab Fur Clip Brooch
M. Buccellati 18K Yellow Gold Crab Fur Clip Brooch

M. Buccellati 18K Yellow Gold Crab Fur Clip Brooch

By Buccellati

Located in New York, NY

Buccellati 18K yellow gold Segrinato crab fur clip brooch set with 2 ruby eyes Approximate Weight: 31.5 grams Approximate Measurement: 39.1mm x 63.7mm (1.46” x 2.52”) Hallmarks: M...

Category

Vintage 1970s Italian Modern Brooches

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

1960s 2 Carat Diamond and Ruby Crab Brooch in Platinum and 14 Karat Gold
1960s 2 Carat Diamond and Ruby Crab Brooch in Platinum and 14 Karat Gold

1960s 2 Carat Diamond and Ruby Crab Brooch in Platinum and 14 Karat Gold

Located in Hicksville, NY

Circa: 1960s Metal Type: Platinum and 14 karat yellow gold Weight: 14 grams Dimensions: 1.75in Length x 1.5in Width Diamond Details: Carat: 2.0 carat total weight Cut: Round Color: ...

Category

Vintage 1960s Unknown Retro Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, Platinum, Gold

Cartier Crab Turquoise Ruby Gold Brooch
Cartier Crab Turquoise Ruby Gold Brooch

Cartier Crab Turquoise Ruby Gold Brooch

By Cartier

Located in South Pasadena, CA

Cartier turquoise ruby and gold crab brooch circa 1960. A very cute little crab with its turquoise shell and ruby-set eyes, embodying the essence of crab posture to perfection, regar...

Category

Vintage 1960s Modern Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Turquoise, 18k Gold

New 14k White & Yellow Gold PL Myanmar Ruby & Pearl Crab Pendant Necklace
New 14k White & Yellow Gold PL Myanmar Ruby & Pearl Crab Pendant Necklace

New 14k White & Yellow Gold PL Myanmar Ruby & Pearl Crab Pendant Necklace

Located in Eagan, MN

It is in the shape of a crab. The eyes are rubies from Myanmar formerly Burma.

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Art Deco Choker Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, Pearl, Gold, Yellow Gold, Sterling Silver, 14k Gold

KURT WAYNE Articulated Crab Brooch In 14Kt Gold With Onyxes, Rubies & Diamonds
KURT WAYNE Articulated Crab Brooch In 14Kt Gold With Onyxes, Rubies & Diamonds

KURT WAYNE Articulated Crab Brooch In 14Kt Gold With Onyxes, Rubies & Diamonds

By Kurt Wayne

Located in Miami, FL

The elusive brooch has been masterfully crafted with substantial weight in solid yellow gold of 14 karats with high polished finish. The crab is fully movable and embellished with a ...

Category

Vintage 1980s American Modernist Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, Ruby, White Diamond, Gold, Yellow Gold, 14k Gold

Gold & Ruby Cancer Crab Charm
Gold & Ruby Cancer Crab Charm

Gold & Ruby Cancer Crab Charm

Sold

W 1 in L 0.75 in

Gold & Ruby Cancer Crab Charm

Located in New York, NY

Attractive astrological cancer charm, a figural "crab." Nicely detailed. 14K textured yellow gold, with flashing faceted ruby eyes. 1" x 3/4."

Category

Vintage 1940s American More Jewelry

Materials

Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold

Ruby Diamond Gold Crab Brooch

Ruby Diamond Gold Crab Brooch

Located in Chestnut Hill, MA

18 karat yellow gold crab pin. The pin is accented with 2 cabochon cut rubies for the eyes and 1 Old European Cut diamond having an approximate total weight of .40 carats.

Category

Late 20th Century Unknown Contemporary Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, White Diamond, 18k Gold

Tiffany & Co Gold Ruby Sapphire Crab Brooch Pin
Tiffany & Co Gold Ruby Sapphire Crab Brooch Pin

Tiffany & Co Gold Ruby Sapphire Crab Brooch Pin

By Tiffany & Co.

Located in Lambertville, NJ

Tiffany & Co 18k yellow gold crab brooch with rubies and sapphires. Brooch is 36mm x 35mm. marked - Tiffany & co,18k. weight - 16.3g

Category

20th Century American Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold

Movable Invisibly Set Ruby Diamond Gold Crab Pin Pendant
Movable Invisibly Set Ruby Diamond Gold Crab Pin Pendant

Movable Invisibly Set Ruby Diamond Gold Crab Pin Pendant

Located in Palm Beach, FL

(see images 7 & 8) There are approx 5 carats of rubies & .75ct diamonds. This pin weighs 29.8 grams This pin measures approx 2 inches across x 1 3/4 inch high

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Adina Reyter One of a Kind Ruby + Garnet + Diamond Crab Charm
Adina Reyter One of a Kind Ruby + Garnet + Diamond Crab Charm

Adina Reyter One of a Kind Ruby + Garnet + Diamond Crab Charm

By Adina Reyter

Located in Sherman Oaks, CA

Adina Reyter One of a Kind Ruby + Garnet + Diamond Crab Charm-Y14 14k yellow gold hinged crab charm with hand-set pavé diamonds, garnets and rubies.

Category

2010s Indian Necklace Enhancers

Materials

Diamond, Garnet, Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Yvonne Leon Contemporary Crab Earring 18 Karat Yellow Gold Diamonds and Ruby
Yvonne Leon Contemporary Crab Earring 18 Karat Yellow Gold Diamonds and Ruby

Yvonne Leon Contemporary Crab Earring 18 Karat Yellow Gold Diamonds and Ruby

By Yvonne Leon

Located in Paris, FR

Earring in 18K Yellow Gold 5,2 gr Diamonds 0,40 carats Ruby 0,10 carats Black Diamonds 0,04 carats Sold by Unit Alpa System

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Dangle Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Black Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

1970 Mario Buccellati Gold Crab Brooch

1970 Mario Buccellati Gold Crab Brooch

By Mario Buccellati

Located in Cremona, Lombardia

'70 Mario Buccellati brooche 18 kt gold segrinato crab with rubies eyes

Category

Vintage 1970s Italian Artisan Brooches

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold

R. CIPULLO Coral Heart Pendant Necklace
R. CIPULLO Coral Heart Pendant Necklace

R. CIPULLO Coral Heart Pendant Necklace

Located in Los Angeles, CA

Solid Coral Heart Motif. Adorned by sea crab with ruby eyes with starfish top. Signed: "R.

Category

Vintage 1980s Italian Drop Necklaces

Materials

Coral, Ruby, 18k Gold

Whimsical Aquamarine Gold Ring
Whimsical Aquamarine Gold Ring

Whimsical Aquamarine Gold Ring

By Renato Cipullo

Located in New York, NY

18kt gold and natural rough Aquamarine ring. 7 carat stone in a setting featuring shells, starfish and a crab with ruby eyes. Part of Renato Cipullo's Return to the Sea collection.

Category

21st Century and Contemporary American Contemporary Fashion Rings

Materials

Aquamarine, 18k Gold

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18K Rose Gold Onyx & Ruby Tiger Necklace with Diamonds

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By Althoff Jewelry

Located in Hong Kong, HK

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14K Yellow Gold Mouse Brooch with Ruby Eyes, Late 20th Century, USA

14K Yellow Gold Mouse Brooch with Ruby Eyes, Late 20th Century, USA

Located in New York, NY

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Category

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Materials

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Martha Seely 14k Multi-Color Gemstone & Diamond Dangle Earrings
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$3,785 / item

H 1.5 in W 0.38 in D 0.25 in L 1.5 in

Martha Seely 14k Multi-Color Gemstone & Diamond Dangle Earrings

By Martha Seely

Located in Carlisle, MA

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Category

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18K Gold Bear Necklace with Fancy Diamonds & Pink Sapphires

18K Gold Bear Necklace with Fancy Diamonds & Pink Sapphires

By Althoff Jewelry

Located in Hong Kong, HK

18K Gold Bear Necklace with Fancy Diamonds & Pink Sapphires 7 Fancy Diamonds 0.06 CT 2 Green Garnet 0.04 CT 202 Pink Sapphires 3.10 CT 18K Rose Gold 8.98 GM Elevate your jewelr...

Category

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Materials

Diamond, Pink Sapphire, 18k Gold

18K Rose Gold Bear Ruby Pendant with Diamonds
18K Rose Gold Bear Ruby Pendant with Diamonds

18K Rose Gold Bear Ruby Pendant with Diamonds

By Althoff Jewelry

Located in Hong Kong, HK

18K Rose Gold Bear Pendant with Diamonds & Rubies 84 Diamonds - 0.95 CT 72 Rubies - 1.18 CT 18K Rose Gold - 7.47 GM Discover the epitome of elegance with our extraordinary 18K ...

Category

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Diamond, Ruby, Rose Gold

Signed Damiani 18k Gold & Diamond Crab Shaped Brooch or Pin
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Signed Damiani 18k Gold & Diamond Crab Shaped Brooch or Pin

By Damiani

Located in Philadelphia, PA

A fine signed 18K gold & diamond figural brooch or pin. By Damiani, the renowned Italian jewelers. In the form of a crab with a diamond studded shell and gold claws. Set with 14 s...

Category

Late 20th Century Italian Modern Brooches

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold

Octopus Pendant in 18K Gold Diamonds, Rubies, Pearl Shell
Octopus Pendant in 18K Gold Diamonds, Rubies, Pearl Shell

Octopus Pendant in 18K Gold Diamonds, Rubies, Pearl Shell

Located in Hong Kong, HK

With six arms to hold you, you'll fall in love with this octopus pendant, which is a part of our sea wonders collections. Crafted in 18kt rose gold, the animal's wavy arms are brilli...

Category

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Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, 18k Gold

18K Gold Parrot Necklace with Diamonds & Rubies & Sapphires
18K Gold Parrot Necklace with Diamonds & Rubies & Sapphires

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By Althoff Jewelry

Located in Hong Kong, HK

18K Gold Parrot Necklace with Diamonds & Rubies & Sapphires 16 Diamonds - 0.09 CT 58 Green Garnets - 0.58 CT 12 Orange Sapphires - 0.07 CT 3 Pink Sapphires - 0.02 CT 2 Rub...

Category

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Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold

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Located in Jupiter, FL

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Category

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18K Rose Gold Ruby Blessing Goldfish Ring with Diamonds

18K Rose Gold Ruby Blessing Goldfish Ring with Diamonds

By Althoff Jewelry

Located in Hong Kong, HK

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18K Yellow Gold Teddy Bear Pendant with Natural Diamonds
18K Yellow Gold Teddy Bear Pendant with Natural Diamonds

18K Yellow Gold Teddy Bear Pendant with Natural Diamonds

Located in Hong Kong, HK

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Ruby Crab For Sale on 1stDibs

On 1stDibs, you can find the most appropriate ruby crab for your needs in our varied inventory. Each design created in this style — which was crafted with great care and often made from Gold, 18k Gold and Yellow Gold — can elevate any look. In our selection of items, you can find a vintage example as well as a contemporary version. If you’re looking for a ruby crab from a specific time period, our collection is diverse and broad-ranging, and you’ll find at least one that dates back to the 20th Century while another version may have been produced as recently as the 21st Century. There have been many well-made iterations of the classic ruby crab over the years, but those made by Tiffany & Co., Yvonne Leon and Althoff Jewelry are often thought to be among the most beautiful. See these pages for a round cut iteration of this accessory, while there are also cabochon cut and french cut cut versions available here, too. Finding a ruby crab for sale for women should be easy, but there are 12 pieces available to browse for unisex as well as men, too.

How Much is a Ruby Crab?

On average, a ruby crab at 1stDibs sells for $3,275, while they’re typically $1,600 on the low end and $18,500 for the highest priced versions of this item.

Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship

Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself. 

Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.

Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.

For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.

Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.

In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so. 

Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.

Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. 

BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.

A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in

Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.

Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.

Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.

The Legacy of Ruby in Jewelry Design

This deep red gem is the color of heat and passion — vintage and antique ruby jewelry is perfect for those born in the middle of summer.

Rubies are one of the few gemstones that can give diamonds a run for their money. Just consider the Van Cleef & Arpels “scarf” necklace the Duke of Windsor presented to the Duchess on her 40th birthday, in 1936 — set with diamonds and dripping with rubies, a testament to the deep-red gemstone’s power — or the slippers encrusted with 4,600 rubies that Harry Winston made to commemorate The Wizard of Oz’s golden anniversary. July babies have permission to adorn themselves with this beautiful red stone even when it’s not their birthday.

Rubies are considered precious stones — along with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds — and have a hardness of 9.0 on the Mohs Scale, surpassed only by Moissanite and diamonds. They are composed of corundum, a colorless mineral that is also the basic material of sapphires. In the July birthstone, the red of the gemstone — and the various hues seen in sapphires — are produced by the presence of trace elements. In the case of a ruby, this element is chromium. Rubies range in color from vermilion to a violet red. They are also pleochroic, which means that a stone’s hue can vary depending on the direction of viewing. The most sought-after color is pigeon’s blood: pure red with a hint of blue.

Rubies that are hosted in dolomite marble are the most prized: Because the marble is low in iron, so are the rubies, resulting in a more intense color. Rubies found in basalt, which has a higher iron content, are generally darker and less intense.

When shopping for antique and vintage ruby jewelry, remember that the 4Cs of selecting the perfect diamond — color, clarity, cut and carat — also apply to rubies.

According to the Gemological Institute of America, the color of the July birthstone should be a vibrant to slightly purplish red, and the stone should be clear and inclusion-free. Accordingly, the cut should show off its color and clarity. As for the last criterion, fine rubies more than a carat in weight are rare. Often, large rubies are more expensive than diamonds of comparable weights.

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