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Van Cleef Bear

Van Cleef & Arpels 1965 Convertible Necklace, Bracelet & Brooch
Van Cleef & Arpels 1965 Convertible Necklace, Bracelet & Brooch

Van Cleef & Arpels 1965 Convertible Necklace, Bracelet & Brooch

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in New York, NY

Each piece is fully signed "Van Cleef & Arpels," numbered, and bears French assay, maker's, and workshop marks.

Category

Vintage 1960s French Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Platinum

Van Cleef & Arpels Sirius Diamond Brooch in 18K Gold
Van Cleef & Arpels Sirius Diamond Brooch in 18K Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Sirius Diamond Brooch in 18K Gold

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in New York, NY

Their crisp sparkle dances against the warmth of 18k yellow gold, bringing the entire piece to life with a vibrant, almost star-like energy. The brooch bears the Van Cleef & Arpe...

Category

20th Century French Contemporary Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels 1970s Taurus Zodiac Sign Gold Medallion Pendant
Van Cleef & Arpels 1970s Taurus Zodiac Sign Gold Medallion Pendant

Van Cleef & Arpels 1970s Taurus Zodiac Sign Gold Medallion Pendant

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in New York, NY

Pendant measures 1 3/16" in diameter, and 1.5" long with the bale. Marked on the rim - Van Cleef & Arpels, 71995, also bears a French eagle head mark on one side.

Category

Vintage 1970s French Necklace Enhancers

Materials

Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels 18K Yellow Gold 36-Inches, Georges L'enfant Chain
Van Cleef & Arpels 18K Yellow Gold 36-Inches, Georges L'enfant Chain

Van Cleef & Arpels 18K Yellow Gold 36-Inches, Georges L'enfant Chain

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in New York, NY

The chain is fully signed and numbered by Van Cleef & Arpels and bears the prestigious Georges L'Enfant maker's mark, guaranteeing both its authenticity and exceptional provenance.

Category

20th Century French Modern Chain Necklaces

Materials

Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef Arpels Aquamarine Ring. 1.50ct Square Aquamarine Pearl Ring 18K Gold
Van Cleef Arpels Aquamarine Ring. 1.50ct Square Aquamarine Pearl Ring 18K Gold

Van Cleef Arpels Aquamarine Ring. 1.50ct Square Aquamarine Pearl Ring 18K Gold

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in New York, NY

This exceptional ring is signed "Van Cleef & Arpels" and bears French import marks, attesting to its authenticity and refined heritage.

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Art Deco Engagement Rings

Materials

Aquamarine, Pearl, Gold, Yellow Gold

VCA Aquamarine and Mother Pearl Ring. 1.50ct Square Cut Aquamarine Ring 18K Gold
VCA Aquamarine and Mother Pearl Ring. 1.50ct Square Cut Aquamarine Ring 18K Gold

VCA Aquamarine and Mother Pearl Ring. 1.50ct Square Cut Aquamarine Ring 18K Gold

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in New York, NY

This exceptional ring is signed "Van Cleef & Arpels" and bears French import marks, attesting to its authenticity and refined heritage.

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Art Deco Engagement Rings

Materials

Aquamarine, Pearl, Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold

Recent Sales

Van Cleef & Arpels "Twist" Cufflinks in 18K Yellow Gold
Van Cleef & Arpels "Twist" Cufflinks in 18K Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels "Twist" Cufflinks in 18K Yellow Gold

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in San Rafael, CA

Both cufflinks are signed VAN CLEEF & ARPELS and bear VCA maker's marks, serial numbers, 18 Kt, the copyright symbol and French "eagle's head" assay marks indicating solid, 18K yello...

Category

20th Century French Cufflinks

Materials

18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Gold Teddy Bear Brooch
Van Cleef & Arpels Gold Teddy Bear Brooch

Van Cleef & Arpels Gold Teddy Bear Brooch

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Amsterdam, NL

An 18 carat gold brooch in the shape of a teddy bear, with ruby eyes, a carnelian tongue and a black enamel nose, signed and numbered: Van Cleef & Arpels, 1324B, Paris, circa 1965.

Category

Vintage 1960s French Brooches

Materials

Agate, Ruby, 18k Gold

Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Bear Charm Yellow Gold Band Ring
Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Bear Charm Yellow Gold Band Ring

Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Bear Charm Yellow Gold Band Ring

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Southampton, PA

18k Yellow Gold Bear Charm Vintage Band Ring by Van Cleef & Arpels.

Category

20th Century French Band Rings

Materials

18k Gold

Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels French 18 Karat Yellow Gold Bear Charm Ring
Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels French 18 Karat Yellow Gold Bear Charm Ring

Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels French 18 Karat Yellow Gold Bear Charm Ring

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Beverly Hills, CA

One Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels French 18 Karat Yellow Gold Bear Charm Ring.

Category

1990s French Fashion Rings

Materials

18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels French Diamond 18 Karat Gold Teddy Bear Pendant Vintage Ring
Van Cleef & Arpels French Diamond 18 Karat Gold Teddy Bear Pendant Vintage Ring

Van Cleef & Arpels French Diamond 18 Karat Gold Teddy Bear Pendant Vintage Ring

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Philadelphia, PA

Numbered with maker's mark. Signed VCA NY for Van Cleef & Arpels - New York. Circa late 20th century.

Category

Late 20th Century American Contemporary Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Lucky Animals Teddy Bear Clip Mother of Pearl Onyx 18K Gold
Van Cleef & Arpels Lucky Animals Teddy Bear Clip Mother of Pearl Onyx 18K Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Lucky Animals Teddy Bear Clip Mother of Pearl Onyx 18K Gold

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Banbury, GB

SKU 33301843 Comes With Full Set (Pouch + Card) Date 2023 RRP £7,300 Incl. Taxes / €8,550 Incl. Taxes / $8,200 Excl. Taxes Model VCARP9RZ00 Serial Number JF****** Metal 18k Rose Gold...

Category

2010s French Brooches

Materials

Pearl, Onyx, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Gold and Diamond Earrings
Van Cleef & Arpels Gold and Diamond Earrings

Van Cleef & Arpels Gold and Diamond Earrings

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in New Orleans, LA

Their masterpieces have attracted the patronage of royalty and celebrity alike, including the Duchess of Windsor, Princess Grace of Monaco and Elizabeth Taylor. These earrings bear...

Category

21st Century and Contemporary French Modern Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris 18K Unusual Vintage Earrings.
Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris 18K Unusual Vintage Earrings.

Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris 18K Unusual Vintage Earrings.

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Aspen, CO

They are also marked 750 for 18K and bear the Van Cleef numbers. To prevent reproductions, we have obscured the full Van Cleef number.

Category

Vintage 1970s French Contemporary Clip-on Earrings

Materials

18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris, 18K Unusual Vintage Earrings.
Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris, 18K Unusual Vintage Earrings.

Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris, 18K Unusual Vintage Earrings.

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Aspen, CO

They are also marked 750 for 18K and bear the Van Cleef numbers. To prevent reproductions, we have obscured the full Van Cleef number.

Category

Vintage 1970s French Contemporary Clip-on Earrings

Materials

18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Platinum Snowflake Diamond Earrings Small Model
Van Cleef & Arpels Platinum Snowflake Diamond Earrings Small Model

Van Cleef & Arpels Platinum Snowflake Diamond Earrings Small Model

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in New York, NY

Elegantly signed and numbered, they are inscribed with Van Cleef & Arpels, VCA, PT950 and bear French assay marks.

Category

20th Century French Modern Drop Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Platinum

Floral Diamond and Gold Brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels, 18.00 Carat
Floral Diamond and Gold Brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels, 18.00 Carat

Floral Diamond and Gold Brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels, 18.00 Carat

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in New Orleans, LA

Their masterpieces have attracted the patronage of royalty and celebrity alike, including the Duchess of Windsor, Princess Grace of Monaco and Elizabeth Taylor. This brooch bears t...

Category

21st Century and Contemporary French Modern Brooches

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Mercredi a Paris 18k Rose Gold Diamond Coral Necklace
Van Cleef & Arpels Mercredi a Paris 18k Rose Gold Diamond Coral Necklace

Van Cleef & Arpels Mercredi a Paris 18k Rose Gold Diamond Coral Necklace

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in New York, NY

Fully signed and numbered by Van Cleef & Arpels, this necklace bears the prestigious mark of authenticity and quality.

Category

Early 2000s French Modern Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Coral, Diamond, Rose Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Black Onyx Cabochon Gold Cuff-Links
Van Cleef & Arpels Black Onyx Cabochon Gold Cuff-Links

Van Cleef & Arpels Black Onyx Cabochon Gold Cuff-Links

Located in Miami, FL

These authentic 1970s cuff-links of unsurpassed refinement and classic elegance are designed and signed by Van Cleef & Arpels and bear the reference number 51391.

Category

Vintage 1970s Cufflinks

Materials

Onyx, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Ruby Polar Bear Platinum Brooch
Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Ruby Polar Bear Platinum Brooch

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Ruby Polar Bear Platinum Brooch

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in New York, NY

Ruby bright and lively, single pinstem. Signed Van Cleef & Arpels NY. Serial number will be provided for potential buyers.

Category

20th Century French Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Platinum

Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Bear Charm Yellow Gold Band Ring
Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Bear Charm Yellow Gold Band Ring

Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Bear Charm Yellow Gold Band Ring

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Southampton, PA

18k Yellow Gold Bear Charm Vintage Band Ring by Van Cleef & Arpels.

Category

1990s Band Rings

Materials

Yellow Gold

18 Karat Gold Van Cleef & Arpels Cat and Bear Pendant with Chain
18 Karat Gold Van Cleef & Arpels Cat and Bear Pendant with Chain

18 Karat Gold Van Cleef & Arpels Cat and Bear Pendant with Chain

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Zurich, Zollstrasse

This rare and fabulous 2 Van Cleef & Arpels pendants feature the iconic chat malicieux and bear design and are crafted in 18 K textured yellow gold and decorated with emerald and e...

Category

Vintage 1980s French Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

White Diamond, Emerald, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Georges L'Enfant France Vintage Ruby Gold Teddy Bear Brooch
Van Cleef & Arpels Georges L'Enfant France Vintage Ruby Gold Teddy Bear Brooch

Van Cleef & Arpels Georges L'Enfant France Vintage Ruby Gold Teddy Bear Brooch

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Greenwich, CT

Feel the comfort and warmth of having your own Teddy Bear, with this Van Cleef & Arpels Georges L'Enfant ruby, coral, and 18 karat yellow gold vintage bear brooch.

Category

Vintage 1960s French Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold

Pristine Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond and Onyx Panda Bear Brooch 18 Karat Gold
Pristine Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond and Onyx Panda Bear Brooch 18 Karat Gold

Pristine Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond and Onyx Panda Bear Brooch 18 Karat Gold

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in New York, NY

Designed as an onyx panda bear, with a circular-cut diamond face and back, mounted in 18K gold, with French assay marks and maker's mark Signed V.C.A. for Van Cleef & Arpels, N.Y Ser...

Category

21st Century and Contemporary American Artisan Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, 18k Gold

Jumbo Van Cleef & Arpels Aquarius Zodiac Pendant
Jumbo Van Cleef & Arpels Aquarius Zodiac Pendant

Jumbo Van Cleef & Arpels Aquarius Zodiac Pendant

Sold

H 1.93 in W 1.62 in Dm 1.62 in

Jumbo Van Cleef & Arpels Aquarius Zodiac Pendant

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Amsterdam, NL

The pendant is signed: VCA for Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered: 127261, and bears the mastermark for George Lenfant and the French eagle mark, France, circa 1970.

Category

Vintage 1970s French Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Gold, 18k Gold

Large Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Gold and Ruby Foliate Brooch 3 1/8 Inches Long
Large Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Gold and Ruby Foliate Brooch 3 1/8 Inches Long

Large Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Gold and Ruby Foliate Brooch 3 1/8 Inches Long

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Palm Beach, FL

On the reverse the clip head is stamped Van Cleef & Arpels, 1958 and bears the copyright seal indicating that the design is proprietary.

Category

Mid-20th Century American Modern Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Bear Earrings in 18K Yellow Gold
Van Cleef & Arpels Bear Earrings in 18K Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Bear Earrings in 18K Yellow Gold

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in London, GB

Van Cleef & Arpels Bear Earrings in 18K Yellow Gold Additional information: Length: 22 mm.

Category

20th Century Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Yellow Gold

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Materials

Diamond, Emerald, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

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S/S 1989 ALAIA mini dress
S/S 1989 ALAIA mini dress

S/S 1989 ALAIA mini dress

$2,065Sale Price|30% Off

Size: small

S/S 1989 ALAIA mini dress

By Azzedine Alaïa

Located in Austin, TX

S/S 1989 ALAIA mini dress has stretch rayon, polyamide and elastane fabric sz S 25" bust, 18" waist, 27" hips 28" length

Category

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Van Cleef & Arpels Gold and Diamond Necklace.
Van Cleef & Arpels Gold and Diamond Necklace.

Van Cleef & Arpels Gold and Diamond Necklace.

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in New York, NY

Van Cleef & Arpels 18k yellow gold necklace with diamond accents. The necklace features square motif links. Front of the necklace accented with 6 square links, encrusted with total ...

Category

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Vivienne Westwood Gold Label Duchess Oyster Pink Corset Cocktail Dress C. 2000
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By Vivienne Westwood, Vivienne Westwood Gold Label

Located in Sheffield, GB

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Located in Berlin, BE

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Rare 1990s Azzedine Alaia Black Lycra Gown Runway Sample Museum
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Located in New York, NY

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Vintage 1970s David Webb Turquoise and Diamond Detachable Dangle Earrings
Vintage 1970s David Webb Turquoise and Diamond Detachable Dangle Earrings

Vintage 1970s David Webb Turquoise and Diamond Detachable Dangle Earrings

By David Webb

Located in New York, NY

Finely crafted in 18k yellow gold with four Pear-Shaped Cabochon Turquoises and Round Brilliant and Marquise cut Diamonds weighing approximately a total of 10.00 carats. Signed by Da...

Category

Vintage 1970s Dangle Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Turquoise, 18k Gold

HERMES black Epsom leather MINI KELLY 20 SELLIER Bag Phw
HERMES black Epsom leather MINI KELLY 20 SELLIER Bag Phw

HERMES black Epsom leather MINI KELLY 20 SELLIER Bag Phw

By Hermès

Located in Zürich, CH

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Hermès Birkin 30 Sellier Epsom Bleu Royal Gold Hardware

Hermès Birkin 30 Sellier Epsom Bleu Royal Gold Hardware

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Van Cleef Bear For Sale on 1stDibs

Find the exact van cleef bear you’re shopping for in the variety available on 1stDibs. Frequently made of 18k gold, gold and yellow gold, this item was constructed with great care. You can easily find a 11 antique edition and 1 modern creations to choose from as well. Finding the perfect van cleef bear may mean sifting through those created during different time periods — you can find an early version that dates to the 20th Century and a newer variation that were made as recently as the 21st Century. A van cleef bear from Van Cleef & Arpels and Robert Bruce Bielka — each of whom created a beautiful version of this treasured accessory — is worth considering. A van cleef bear of any era or style can lend versatility to your look, but a version featuring diamond, from our inventory of 4, is particularly popular. A round cut version of this piece has appeal, but there are also cabochon and french cut versions for sale. Most of our van cleef bear for sale are for women, but there are 5 pieces available to browse for men.

How Much is a Van Cleef Bear?

Prices for a van cleef bear can differ depending upon size, time period and other attributes — at 1stDibs, these accessories begin at $372 and can go as high as $198,500, while this accessory, on average, fetches $5,317.

Van Cleef & Arpels for sale on 1stDibs

One of the world’s foremost jewelry houses, Van Cleef & Arpels is particularly noted for a focus on technical virtuosity, craftsmanship and artistry, evident since its beginning. Rather than create earrings, bracelets, necklaces and other adornments primarily for the aim of displaying of wealth and opulence, Van Cleef & Arpels sought to produce jewelry that projected the wearer’s taste and style.

The company was formed a year after the 1895 marriage of Alfred Van Cleef, the son of a gem cutter, to Estelle Arpels, daughter of precious-stones dealer Salomon Arpels. Ten years later, Van Cleef & Arpels opened its first boutique on the Place Vendôme in Paris, setting the march on a square now crowded with dealers in bijouterie. (The company still occupies the New York flagship store opened in 1939 at Fifth Avenue and 57th Street.)

Born from a union of expertise in both jewelry making and gem selection, Van Cleef & Arpels distinguished itself with both the consistency of the color and clarity of its stones and the creativity of its designs. In doing so, the house would win a roster of dedicated, fashion-conscious clients that included the Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, Barbara Hutton, Jacqueline Onassis and Elizabeth Taylor. In 1933, Van Cleef & Arpels patented its trademark Mystery Setting — a technique by which gems are fitted into an intricate matrix of slots and “drawers” that keep the setting hidden. Another signal innovation was the Zip necklace, introduced in 1951, which can be worn either around the neck or, with the zipper closed, as a bracelet.

But as much as to the firm’s craftsmanship, clients have been drawn by the insouciance and playfulness of Van Cleef & Arpels designers, as well as their attunement to the cultural climate. After the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922, the company produced several lavish pieces featuring hieroglyphics and other Egyptian motifs to go along with the geometric Art Deco jewelry of that decade and the next. Following World War II, as symbols of freedom and rebirth, the firm focused on naturalistic forms such as birds, flowers, fruit and flying insects. High society’s 1960s fascination with the Near East and India prompted such pieces as the best-selling Alhambra necklace, popularized by Princess Grace.

Lately, attention among collectors and connoisseurs has centered on Van Cleef & Arpels’s quality of workmanship as much as its glamour. The firm was the subject of a 2012 show at the Cooper-Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, as well as exhibitions at the Bowers Museum in Santa Ana, California, in 2013 and at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris in 2014.

Find an exquisite collection of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry on 1stDibs.

Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship

Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself. 

Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.

Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.

For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.

Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.

In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so. 

Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.

Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. 

BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.

A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in

Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.

Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.

Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.