Belgian designer Martin Margiela (b. 1957) — whose life, career, and designs for handbags, clothing and shoes have become cult-collector obsessions — pushed those who attended his shows outside their comfort zones. In the years following the 1988 debut of Maison Martin Margiela, he toyed with creative and aesthetic paradoxes that persist in fashion today.
Consider the Spring/Summer 2001 shirt patchworked from vintage clothing labels, or his famous corset dresses made from tailoring dummies, from his Fall/Winter 1997 line. Or his oversize collection for Fall/Winter 2000. In 1992, Margiela told Dépêche Mode magazine, “My clothes appeal to women of a certain mindset rather than of a specific age or physique.”
Born in Genk, Belgium, in 1957, Margiela knew he wanted to be a fashion designer after catching glimpses of Parisian fashion on TV as a child. Although his parents discouraged this career choice as an oddly funny aspiration, Margiela enrolled in the fashion program of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. There, he befriended and graduated a year ahead of the Antwerp Six — the acclaimed group of Belgian fashion designers comprising Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk Van Saene.
Like many of his contemporaries in the 1980s, Margiela understood Paris fashion but felt a deep resonance with the deconstructed beauty espoused by Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Garçons. Margiela’s fascination with Japan influenced many of his earliest collections and designs, from a dress pieced together from broken plates to his iconic Tabi boots, inspired by the split-toe Japanese worker’s shoe, which dates back to the 15th century.
Margiela decided to launch his own line while working for renowned Paris designer Jean Paul Gaultier. With Belgian designer Jenny Meirens, Margiela established Maison Martin Margiela in the French capital in 1988.
Margiela’s debut show was nothing short of spectacular. Set in a packed Café de la Gare in the still-seedy Marais district, it was also scandalous to the Parisian fashion set of the time. The designer tore up the conventions of contemporary couture presentations, most notably having his models, plucked from the streets and wearing ink-blotted Tabis, wend their way through the crowd.
The show redefined the concept of the runway in a way that would later inspire such designers as Alexander McQueen and Demna Gvasalia.
While the notoriously private designer retired from fashion in 2009, for many Maison Martin Margiela collectors, his pieces capture the irreverence of the postwar, post-punk late 1980s and ’90s. Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of the cult vintage fashion shop Resurrection, is among those who felt a connection to Margiela’s clothing in the subliminal challenges it posed to the time’s beauty norms.
“Growing up in San Francisco and coming out of the end of punk rock, not wanting to be objectified, not wanting to be seen as a sexual object, not wanting your value to be just because you’re pretty — all those clothes played into all of that,” she says. “It really was a reflection of the kind of world the young people I knew at the time wanted to live in.”
John Galliano was named creative director at the house in 2014 and it rebranded as Maison Margiela in 2015.
Find vintage Maison Martin Margiela boots, evening dresses, jackets and more on 1stDibs.
Martin Margiela White Shirt with Elaborate Cutout Back
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Water Mill, NY
A gorgeous white cotton shirt from Martin Margiela. It has long sleeves with cuffs, a shirt collar and button front. The back is stunning in a chevron pattern of the same fabric lea...
Pink long sleeve tee-shirt with turtle neck Maison Margiela 1
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FR
Pink long sleeve tee-shirt with turtle neck. Main fabric composition: 68% rayon, 29% wool, 5% stretch SIZE S
Martin Margiela S/S 1999 Trompe L'oeil Stockman Cotton Vest Bustier
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Paris, FR
Cotton vest Maison Martin Margiela from the seminal Spring/Summer 1999 collection featuring the designer's deconstructed trompe l'oeil stockman concept. Crafted from grey cotton deni...
Off-white long sleeve tee-shirt with open shoulder MAISON MARGIELA 1
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FR
Off-white long sleeve tee-shirt with open shoulder . Fabric composition: 94% rayon, 6% elasthane . NEW WITH TAG SIZE XL
$144Sale Price|40% Off
MAISON MARGIELA black cotton silk trim reversed button cuff shirt IT38 XS
By MM6 Maison Margiela, Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Hong Kong, NT
MAISON MARGIELA black cotton silk trim reversed button cuff shirt IT38 XS Reference: KEDG/A00079 Brand: Maison Margiela Designer: Martin Margiela Collection: 2014 Material: Cotton, S...
Maison Martin Margiela Vintage Spring 2003 100% Cotton Black Knit Top
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Antwerpen, Vlaams Gewest
Maison Martin Margiela by Martin Vintage Spring 2003 100% Cotton Black Knit Top This is a rare vintage knit top from Martin Margiela, made Spring 2003 100% Cotton Black Knit Top The ...
Maison Martin Margiela 2014 ecru silk shirt
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in CANNES, FR
Maison Martin Margiela 2014 Ecru silk shirt, collar with two faux pearls. Size 44 Italian.
S/S 2007 White Label Halter Top
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Amsterdam, NH
Beautiful Margiela halter top in blue wool. In great condition, from the S/S 2007 collection. Brand: Margiela Period: 00's Material: Wool Size: OS Origin: Made in Italy Condition: V...
Martin Margiela Geometric Draped Top
By Maiscon Martin Margiella, Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Water Mill, NY
A gorgeous sleeveless top in a beautiful teal green from Martin Margiela. It has a V neckline, side zipper and draping panels on the front and over one shoulder. The back is simple. ...
Maison Martin Margiela 2004 S/S white pinstripe blouse with gathered lapels
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in CAPELLE AAN DEN IJSSEL, ZH
Maison Martin Margiela 2004 S/S white pinstripe blouse with gathered lapels Blouse from Maison Margiela's Spring 2004 runway collection epitomizes the ...
Margiela artisanal black leather glove top, ss 2001
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in London, GB
Martin Margiela, iconic artisanal glove top made from an assortment of vintage leather gloves. Halter neck, open back with snap button closures....
MAISON MARGIELA Vintage white nude sheer panel deconstructed shirt blouse IT42 M
By Maison Martin Margiela, MM6 Maison Margiela
Located in Hong Kong, NT
MAISON MARGIELA Vintage white nude sheer panel deconstructed shirt top blouse IT42 M Reference: AEMA/A00182 Brand: Maison Margiela Designer: Martin Margiela Material: Feels like cott...
$616Sale Price|30% Off
MAISON MARGIELA 2005 Vintage 100% silk black sideways off shoulder top IT42 M
By MM6 Maison Margiela, Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Hong Kong, NT
MAISON MARGIELA 2005 Vintage 100% silk black sideways off shoulder top IT42 M Reference: TGAS/C01158 Brand: Maison Margiela Designer: Martin Margi...
2014 Runway Margiela Blue and White Sequin Bustier Top with Pearls
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Runway 2014 Maison Martin Margiela Blue and White sequins strapless bustier top with large pearls. Zip on the side. Marked size 40. Fit us 4
Silk printed asymmetrical tank-top MARGIELA New with tag
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FR
Silk printed asymmetrical tank-top. One small split on the right side with button and buttonhole. One extra button provided. SIZE 40 / M
Maison Margiela MM4 Black Tie-Front Shirt IT 38 US 2 Mandarin Designer Blouse
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Diego, CA
Maison Margiela MM4 Women Basics Tie Front Shirt in Black size IT 38 US 2 Elevate your avant-garde wardrobe with this Maison Margiela MM4 Basic Tie-Front Shirt in classic black. T...
$256Sale Price|20% Off
Maison Martin Margiela Shirt
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in COLLINGWOOD, AU
Maison Martin Margiela Men's Shirt in pale grey and contrast black binding. Iconic item in great condition.
Maison Martin Margiela Early 00's White cotton organza detail tank top
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, IT
- Designed by Martin Margiela - Sold by Skof.Archive - White raw-cut cotton tank top - Early 2000s - Organza nude detail - No size and composition label - Made in Italy - Excellen...
Maison Martin Margiela Black Short Sleeved Top 2002
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Resurrection Vintage is thrilled to offer a vintage Maison Martin Margiela black short sleeved top from 2002, featuring a round neck, drop shoulders, wide short sleeves, and a slight...
Maison Martin Margiela Open-Weave Net Knit Jumper
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in London, GB
Maison Martin Margiela knit jumper. sculptural lens. Features a natural jute-like yarn, the piece features an oversized open-weave grid construction. Boxy silhouette, wide neckline, ...
Red cotton oversize shirt with fabric belt MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FR
Red cotton oversize shirt with fabric belt. Button and buttonhole closure on the middle front. Tiny stain near the brand tag on the top back SIZE : XL/ Oversize fit
Maison Martin Margiela Vintage Top
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Laguna Beach, CA
White cotton knit sweater, with a ribbed V-neck beneath a wide ribbed scoop neck that extends to the back and becomes a hoodie. This delight comes from the Maison Martin Margiela Ico...
F/W 2001 Artisanal Trompe L'oeil Vest
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Amsterdam, NH
Maison Martin Margiela F/W 2001 Artisanal trompe l’oeil vest in a sleeveless design.
$469Sale Price|20% Off
Maison Martin Margiela red viscosa shirt, ss 2001
By Maison Martin Margiela, Martin Margiella
Located in Milano, IT
- Designed by Martin Margiela - Sold by Skof.Archive - Red shirt - Plastic coulisse detail referenced on Look 13 - Button closure - Spring Summer 2001 - Made italy Size: FR 38 - ...
MAISON MARGIELA 2005 Vintage 100% silk black sideways off shoulder top IT42 M
By Maison Martin Margiela, MM6 Maison Margiela
Located in Hong Kong, NT
MAISON MARGIELA 2005 Vintage 100% silk black sideways off shoulder top IT42 M Reference: TGAS/C01158 Brand: Maison Margiela Designer: Martin Margi...
MAISON MARGIELA black cotton silk trim reversed button cuff shirt IT38 XS
By Maison Martin Margiela, MM6 Maison Margiela
Located in Hong Kong, NT
MAISON MARGIELA black cotton silk trim reversed button cuff shirt IT38 XS Reference: KEDG/A00079 Brand: Maison Margiela Designer: Martin Margiela Collection: 2014 Material: Cotton, S...
Martin Margiela Bold Print Black T-Shirt
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in New York, NY
Martin Margiela's bold print stencil on black cotton T-Shirt, originally on display at Canada's Design Museum, measures 34" underarm circumference, length on back measures 23". N...
MAISON MARGIELA blue white cotton knitted print dress shirt Sz 1 S
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Hong Kong, NT
MAISON MARGIELA blue white cotton knitted print dress shirt Sz 1 S Reference: PRWU/A00153 Brand: Maison Margiela Material: Cotton Color: Blue, White Pattern: Abstract Closure: Button...
Maison Margiela Asymmetrical Pleated White Long Sleeve Button Up
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Maison Margiela Asymmetrical Pleated White Long Sleeve Button Up Size 42 Made in Italy 100% cotton SIlver button detail Bust 40"+ Waist 48"+ Len...
Maison Margiela Red Asymmetrical One Sleeve Top
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
size 40 Bust 38" Waist 40" Length 26.5" Left sleeve that beautifully drapes Back zipper closure Great overall condition, no obvious signs of wear
Maison Martin Margiela Long Sleeve Double Layer Top
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Laguna Beach, CA
This effortlessly supple double-layer cotton-knit top is vintage Maison Martin Margiela. The soft white top features long sleeves coupled with a long length that slips over the hips....
Maison Martin Margiela Coral Tee
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Laguna Beach, CA
A coral cotton tee from Maison Martin Margiela stands out with a single breast pocket that sits front and center.
Maison Martin Margiela Sleeveless Top
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Laguna Beach, CA
A unique light brown soft jersey sleeveless top features an asymmetrical hem, longer in front with softly draped shorter back. Cotton top comes from Maison Martin Margiela Iconic Col...