Suzanne Belperron (1900–83) may not be a household name, but anyone who knows jewelry will recognize her as one of the industry’s 20th-century greats. She was born Suzanne Vuillerme in Saint-Claude, France, a center of the French diamond-cutting industry. Displaying an early talent for design, Belperron studied at the Besançon École des Beaux-Arts before moving to Paris and landing her first job as a model-maker and designer at French jewelry house Boivin when she was 19. Within a few years, she was named codirector — a meteoric rise that would jump-start her legacy.
In 1932, Belperron left Boivin to partner with gemstone and natural pearl dealer Bernard Herz, with whom she would develop her distinct avant-garde aesthetic. Unlike most jewelry designers of the day, Belperron decided against signing her works, feeling so confident in her uniqueness that she declared, “My style is my signature.” Her exceptionally dramatic works were nothing like the angular Art Deco pieces that were popular at the time, taking on large-scale sculptural forms and featuring various design motifs from cultures around the world. The designer was a favorite of couturier Elsa Schiaparelli, who modeled her Belperron jewelry in Vogue in 1933. (Belperron jewels would grace the cover of Vogue Paris in 1934.) She would also count Diana Vreeland and Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor, among her fans.
World War II changed everything. When the Germans occupied Paris, the Jewish Herz transferred the company to Belperron in order to preserve the business. Both would later be arrested by the Nazis. Belperron was released; Herz was sent to the Drancy internment camp. He later died at Auschwitz, despite Belperron’s best efforts to get him released.
Belperron kept the firm going during the war and after its end Herz’s son, Jean — a released prisoner of war — became Belperron’s equal partner per Bernard Herz’s final wishes. The two would work together under the name Jean Herz-Suzanne Belperron for the rest of her career. In 1963, Belperron was awarded the rank of Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur, and she quietly retired in 1974.
In 1987, there was a resurgence of interest in Belperron’s work, thanks to the auction of the Duchess of Windsor’s personal collection, which included at least 16 pieces by the designer. In 1999, Ward Landrigan of Verdura acquired both the rights to the Belperron name as well as a design archive of thousands of drawings, leading to the relaunch of the brand in 2015 with a new salon on Fifth Avenue in New York.
Find Suzanne Belperron rings, brooches and other jewelry on 1stDibs today.
$6,500
H 11.25 in W 9 in
Andy Warhol, Warhol's Index Book, pop-up book, hand signed, numbered
By Andy Warhol
Located in Chatsworth, CA
Andy Warhol Index (Book) 1967 Hand signed by Warhol on the cover and multiple other pages in the book Numbered 122/365 from the edition of 365. Publis...
Mixed Media
Walter Albini Published by Carla Sozzani 1st Edition 1990
Located in CA, CA
A very scarce book published by Carla Sozzani founder of 10 Corso Como in Milan as a tribute to Walter Albini (1941-1983) and his contribution to Italian...
Paper
$175
H 12.5 in W 10.5 in D 2.5 in
The Movie Book Hardcover by Phaidon Press, Illustrated Edition, 1999
Located in Moreno Valley, CA
The Movie Book Hardcover 1st edition 12 October 1999 by Phaidon Press . * Phaidon; Illustrated édition (28 octobre 1999). * English 512 pages. Following the same successful formula a...
Paper
Fashion Theory Hardcover by Carol Digrappa 1st Edition 1980s
Located in Moreno Valley, CA
Fashion Theory Hardcover by Carol Digrappa 1980s.This vintage hardcover book titled "Fashion: Theory" by Carol Di Grappa is a must-have for any fashion enthusiast. The book, publishe...
Paper
$2,500
H 30.25 in W 22.25 in D 0.13 in
"Untitled" - Modified Plate IX, Lithograph from "10 West Coast Artists"
By Felix Ruvolo
Located in Soquel, CA
"Untitled" - Modified Plate IX, Lithograph from "10 West Coast Artists" Bold piece by Felix Ruvolo (American, 1912-1992). This lithograph is an augmented version of Ruvolo's piece "...
Paper, Lithograph
Art Since 1945 Book, By Marcel Brion, New York, Abrams, 1958
By Abrams Publishers
Located in New York, NY
Art Since 1945 book. Printed in New York by Abrams, 1958. Hardcover, text in English. No dust jacket. Including 60 color plates and 120 gravure pla...
Paper
Andy Warhol Diaries, Hard-Cover Library or Coffee Table Book, 1989
By Andy Warhol
Located in New York, NY
'The Andy Warhol Diaries' book is hard-cover, first edition, May 1989. The Andy Warhol Diaries is the dictated memoirs of the American artist, Andy Warhol, posthumously published, May 1989, USA. It was edited by his frequent collaborator and long-time friend, Pat Hackett...
Paper
$661
H 11.82 in W 8.27 in D 0.08 in
Portrait Watercolor and Marker Drawing, Modern Style, Circa 1970
By Reynold Arnould 1
Located in Roma, IT
Portrait is a Watercolor and color Markes Drawing realized by Reynold Arnould (Le Havre 1919 - Parigi 1980). Good condition included a white cardboard passpartout (49x35 cm). No si...
Permanent Marker, Watercolor, Paper
$280Sale Price|20% Off
H 14.5 in W 10.75 in D 0.1 in
1988 'Noise No. 8' Lithograph Book by Various Artists, Limited Edition
Located in Brooklyn, NY
This exclusive softcover book, published by Maeght Editeur and printed by Arte, spans 43 pages and is a highly sought-after collector's item. The publication features an impressive a...
Lithograph
$2,495
H 11.75 in W 9 in D 0.75 in
Salvador Dali Rare Hand Signed Midcentury Book A Study Of His Art In Jewels 1959
By Salvador Dalí
Located in Studio City, CA
A quite scarce and coveted hardcover book in slipcase - "Dali: A Study of His Art-In-Jewels (The Collection of the Owen Cheatham Foundation)". Bound into the book are color photographs of 28 jewels designed by Dali with comments and captions written by the artist himself. The book was published by The New York Graphics Society in 1959 - a quite collectible first edition/first printing (with no other printings noted) of the art book. The book is boldly hand-signed and dated (in the year of publication - 1959) by Dali on the lower corner of the first blank page/ front free endpaper. As such, exceedingly rare (we only know of two other existing copies, and only one was also signed in the year the book was published). A scarce signed edition. Would be a great addition to any collector of Dali's work or those who appreciate his fine art jewelry...
Paper
