Circa 1875-1880
France Troisième République Period
A bustle cage dress and peplum over dress in Eau du Nil challis and lustrous pink taffeta silk. Historicist inspiration of the Louis XIII style by the small puffed sleeves and the berthe collar of the dress. As well as of the Louis XV style by the peplum overdress with a polonaise retroussé effect and its large basques judiciously superimposed. Generous work of ruched appliqué ruffles with hems made by sewing machine. Piping braids, knots, and flat pleats work in a contrast effect between the shiny taffeta and the matt challis. A few moth holes, a small hole and a halo located on the front skirt and the waist belt (not visible because covered by the overskirt). Very good condition of color and conservation
Dimensions : Presented on mannequin size 32/34. Small size. Height 122 cm Shoulders 37 cm Collar 3 cm Sleeves 46 cm Chest 80 cm Waist 62 cm
When around 1868, the Princess of Metternick was first seen in a Worth dress known as the Peplum withouh crinoline, the muse of the imperial salons of the Second Empire, she set the tone for a simplification of the silhouette towards a fashion less marked of etiquette. In the same way, the princess line launched at the same period, a draped dress without seams at the waist between the bodice and the skirt, designed a fashion suitable for ceremonies as well as for city or walking ensembles: dresses with a system that allows the skirt to be raised by a system of inner cords also facilitate walking and the progressive development of women's sports. Between 1870 and 1890, the old crinoline cages underwent several morphological evolutions: from the half whale cage in the shape of a pouff or a false butt, to the bustle cage, the most extravagant model of which was the folding chair with articulated cushion, the female silhouette only became lighter very gradually. The upholstery style is still very much in vogue, with its drapes, braids and pleats, but is superimposed in several pieces of clothing: paletots, corselets with straps, boleros, visits and removable overskirts with aprons or à la polonaise...
Category
French 1870s Evening Dresses and Gowns