Extremely Rare 1990s Oscar de la Renta for Balmain Haute Couture Gown

The name Oscar de la Renta is synonymous with enduring originality in fashion, and his work deeply influenced other designers throughout the latter half of the 20th century. Vintage Oscar de la Renta evening dresses and gowns — which often feature ruffles, dazzling prints, vibrant colors and dramatic silhouettes — exude elegant sophistication and femininity, while his exquisite scarves and shoes rounded out his sought-after collections.

De la Renta was born in the Dominican Republic in 1932. He was the youngest of seven children, the rest of whom were girls. At the age of 18, he left home for Madrid and studied painting at the San Fernando Royal Academy of Fine Arts. A natural talent for illustration earned him an apprenticeship with the legendary Spanish fashion designer Cristobal Balenciaga.

In 1961, de la Renta visited Paris, where he was hired as a couture assistant at Lanvin. Less than two years later, he moved to New York City. He designed a ready-to-wear collection for Elizabeth Arden and partnered with Jane Derby. He also began designing dresses for First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy. When Derby died in 1965, the label was named after de la Renta (he took full control in the 1970s). Shortly after, he married an editor-in-chief of French Vogue, Françoise de Langlade, whose own career in fashion began at Elsa Schiaparelli’s fashion house.

De la Renta served as president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America from 1973–76, and again from 1986–88. In 1981, the tradition of de la Renta dressing First Ladies continued. He quickly became one of Nancy Reagan’s favorite designers (as well as her lifelong friend).

De la Renta expanded his clothing lines throughout the 1990s but kept true to his feminine, polished style. He also continued to design for the First Ladies of the United States, and his pieces were worn by both Hillary Clinton and Laura Bush. At Balmain, de la Renta was the first Dominican to design for a French couture house.

Over the course of his career, de la Renta earned the CFDA Lifetime Achievement Award, the Coty Award and the Fragrance Foundation’s Perennial Success Award. He passed away in 2014.

In 2015, the Savannah College of Art and Design Museum of Fashion + Film showcased more than 80 of de la Renta's gowns at its inaugural exhibit.

On 1stDibs, find vintage Oscar de la Renta suits, blouses, accessories and handbags.

From the voluminous skirts of the post-World War II “New Look” favored by Hollywood icons like Audrey Hepburn and Marlene Dietrich to the sleek, skinny jeans seen on Nicki Minaj, Kid Cudi and every Kardashian, clothes from the House of Balmain have long been mainstays in celebrity wardrobes.

The son of a dressmaker and a drapery salesman, Pierre Balmain was born in 1914 in southeastern France and formed an interest in fashion at an early age. His mother wanted her son to be an architect — but the principles of design and structure Balmain learned in his brief studies at the École des Beaux Arts served him well throughout his career. 

Balmain founded his now-iconic label in 1945. Alongside fellow couture titans Christian Dior and Hubert de Givenchy, Balmain’s postwar take on luxe dressing featured bell-shaped skirts falling from slender waists, structured jackets over sheath day dresses and embellishments like fur trim; he called the look “Jolie Madame.” The Duchess of Windsor was an early fan, prompting an aristocratic following. 

Balmain was among the first to offer French looks to the American market. Since Pierre Balmain’s death in 1982, the design reins have been handed to luminaries such as Oscar de la Renta and Olivier Rousteing, an alum of Roberto Cavalli who was installed as creative director at the label in 2011.

Today’s Balmain has more in common with the master’s original haute couture than you might expect: sharply tailored blazers that nip in at the waist, delicate stilettos and ultra-feminine evening dresses are wardrobe basics for the 21st-century woman, too. Lovers of couture history will also prize the fluid, easy sketches from the master’s own hand they’ll find on offer here, while fashionistas clamor for the brand’s t-shirts, military-style jackets and skinny jeans. 

Whether you’re a colonel in Rousteing’s “glamour army” or you fancy yourself a “Jolie Madame,” a Balmain piece — from the 1960s or even last season — will add a bold, sexy note to your look. Daytime or night, Balmain feels right now.

Find vintage Balmain dresses, skirts, shoes and other garments and accessories on 1stDibs.