From the prismatic Pleats Please collection to the modular, three-dimensional garments crafted from recycled plastic bottles in his Reality Lab, the captivating fashions by Japanese designer Issey Miyake are all about movement.
Born in Hiroshima, Miyake studied graphic design at Tama Art University in Tokyo before relocating to Paris in 1965, where he studied couture and cut his teeth working for Guy Laroche and Hubert de Givenchy. In 1969, he moved to New York, where he worked for Geoffrey Beene. He returned to Tokyo in 1970 to found his first solo venture, the Miyake Design Studio. It wasn’t until the 1990s, though, that the designer had his breakthrough moment with experimentations in pleating. Some of his earliest explorations were for choreographer William Forsythe’s Frankfurt Ballet Company, with the 1991 performance of The Loss of Small Detail featuring costumes Miyake designed with pleats that complemented and transformed the movement of the dancers.
Though long a staple in couture — from delicate women’s skirts to men’s suit pants — pleats took on new life in Miyake’s hands. By using a heat press to cure his fabrics after his garments are stitched, Miyake was able to maintain the accordion structure of the pleat, turning a series of folds into sculptural, often futuristic forms unbound by the shape of the human body. In 1993, Miyake debuted “garment pleating” in his Pleats Please line, in which the clothes are constructed at a size that is larger than what is intended for the finished product. The pleats are then created — a process that involves folding and ironing and is separate from the joining of seams — and individual pieces are subsequently hand-fed into a heat press. The pleats are permanent and the garments can be worn and washed without losing their shape.
Miyake’s pleats run the gamut in scale, which enabled him to evoke dramatic, sharp silhouettes and flowy movements in equal measure. In essence, he created an entirely new material whose iterations are infinite — a feat of technology as much as fashion.
Other innovations include Miyake’s 1997 Just Before collection, which introduced a series of tube-knit dresses that could be cut as desired, reducing both work and resources. His Reality Lab now investigates new materials, such as a fully recycled polyester. Miyake’s prowess, in fact, captured another iconic figure in the tech world: Steve Jobs, for whom the designer made hundreds of identical black turtlenecks, the late Apple founder’s sartorial signature.
Find a collection of vintage Issey Miyake day dresses, jackets, shirts and other clothing on 1stDibs.
Rare Issey Miyake Signature Pleated Multi-Color "Graffiti" Open Coat
By Issey Miyake
Located in New York, NY
Issey Miyake signature pleated multi-color "Graffiti" open coat measures 46" in total length, sleeves are 23", underarm circumference is 44". All measurements are taken at "Un-stretc...
MISSONI Silk Rainbow Skirt Suit with Ruffle Collar Size 8
By Missoni
Located in Los Angeles, CA
This Missoni design is composed of a rainbow patterned silk with a ruffle collar. The skirt has a pleated style with an elastic waist. In excellent vintage condition. **Please cro...
$660Sale Price|50% Off
Hermès 1980s Vintage Multicoloured Wool Women's Skirt Suit, France
By Hermès
Located in Capri, IT
1980s Hermes multicoloured wool skirt suit totally made in france
Vintage White & Multicolor Hermes 1993 Silk Prize Ribbon Print Skirt Suit
By Hermès
Located in New York, NY
Vintage white and multicolor silk prize ribbon print skirt suit by Hermes. Circa 1993. Blazer features shawl collar, structured shoulders, short sleeves, and double-breasted gold-ton...
$2,830
Size: Top: 3, Skirt: 2
Issey Miyake 2000 Black Pleated Skirt Ensemble W/ Multicolor Geometric Appliques
By Issey Miyake
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Resurrection Vintage is excited to offer a vintage Issey Miyake Pleats Please ensemble that features colorful, geometric appliques on the top and skirt, a long-sleeved top, side slit...
Incredible Rare Issey Miyake Pleats Please Avant Garde Color Block Dress
By Issey Miyake
Located in Boca Raton, FL
Futuristic designer Issey Miyake has mastered the technique of creating sculptural works of art in cloth. His innovative pattern cutting and signature use of micro pleating give his garments a unique form. As one of the earliest designers to take on this style of fashion, Miyake is held in high regard as a pioneer of these creative, out-of-this-world fashions. From the Pleats Please line, this rare collector’s dress is done in a pleated fabric in shades of midnight blue, electric purple, red, magenta, cerulean, chartreuse, brown, sage, and neon green. The bright colors have a prismatic quality that makes the dress pop visually, giving the eye something new to appreciate from each angle while elevating this garment to a work of art. The dress begins with a high straight neckline and long sleeves that reach the wrists. The front of the dress is fitted throughout, creating an elegant sheath that falls to a maxi length several inches above the ankles. The body of the dress is done in midnight blue pleats with a section of purple at the bust and a section of neon green near the hem that draws the eye. Thigh-high slits at each side of the dress allow for greater ease of movement while introducing a welcome risqué element that helps balance the volume of material on display. Size: Small Measurements: Bust: 32 inches Waist: 30 inches Length: 50 inches An incredible panel at the back of the dress is made up of a vivid patchwork of color-blocked fabric, adding extra depth and gravitas to this Avant Garde masterpiece. The top of the panel can be folded over the front of the shoulders to create a curving, cocoon-like shawl, or folded together at the back like wings at rest. The panel spans the entire length of the dress and is slightly higher at the neck, adding volume and a delightful sculptural element to the otherwise columnar silhouette of the dress. An unforgettable addition to the discerning fashion lover’s wardrobe, this rare Issey Miyake Pleats Please dress is the perfect choice for a wedding, gala, or special occasion, and is sure to turn heads for many years to come. This vintage Issey Miyake dress...
Multicolor printed cotton ensemble Jean-Louis Scherrer Boutique
By Jean-Louis Scherrer
Located in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FR
Multicolor printed cotton ensemble (jacket and dress) SIZE 40 (M)
Issey Miyake Vintage Spring 1994 Pleated Midi Dress Multicolor Tile Grid Print
By Issey Miyake
Located in Morongo Valley, CA
Issey Miyake pleated dress from the Spring/Summer 1994 collection. Multicolor grid pattern executed in Miyake’s signature permanent pleatin...
Multicolor printed silk shirt and skirt ensemble Valentino Circa 1970's
By Valentino
Located in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FR
Printed silk shirt and skirt ensemble. White acetate lining inside the shirt ( except inside the sleeves) and skirt. Smocked elastic waist with boned all around the waist. SIZE 14 ...
Chanel Multi-color Silk Printed Dress & Coat Set - 42 - circa 1980's
By Chanel
Located in West Palm Beach, FL
Chanel Vintage Multi-color Silk Printed Dress & Coat Set - 42 - circa 1980's. This set is in good vintage condition with the main issue being a few small stains on the dress and a couple on the jacket which are not noticeable unless examined closely. One button is missing but the dress comes with 2 extra buttons on the inside and can easily be fixed.The dress is collared and buttons up with ruching in the middle. The kimono style coat...
Issey Miyake multicoloured four-piece layered pleated dress, ss 1993
By Issey Miyake
Located in London, GB
▪ Issey Miyake rare layered pleated dress ▪ Consisting of four-layered individual garments ▪ A-line shape ▪ Designed to bounce up and down when worn ▪ Yellow, green, orange, and bl...
Jean Paul Gaultier multicoloured satin evening robe and cummerbund, fw 1984
By Jena Paul Gaultier, Jean Paul Gaultier
Located in London, GB
▪ Jean Paul Gaultier multicoloured satin evening robe ▪ Matching pleated cummerbund with snap buttons ▪ Black wool fitted sleeves ▪ IT 40 - FR 36 - UK 8 - US 4 ▪ Fall-Winter 1984
Gianni Versace multicoloured silk pant suit, ss 1992
By Gianni Versace
Located in London, GB
Gianni Versace multicoloured silk pant suit. Spring-Summer 1992
Vivienne Westwood unisex multicoloured striped satin evening jacket S/S 1993
By Vivienne Westwood
Located in London, GB
Spring-Summer 1993
Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld open-knit multicoloured mohair skirt suit, fw 2003
By Chanel
Located in London, GB
▪ Chanel multicoloured mohair skirt suit ▪ Designed by Karl Lagerfeld ▪ Fall-Winter 2003 ▪ Constructed from a lattice of mohair and net-lace in pastels of green, pink, orange, blue ...
Junya Watanabe multicoloured wool tweed pant suit and hat, fw 2004
By Junya Watanabe Comme des Garçons
Located in London, GB
▪ Junya Watanabe Comme des Garçons multicoloured tweed ensemble ▪ 100% Wool ▪ Bias-cut figure hugging panels ▪ Purple high-neck bodysuit with pin-tucked waist panel ▪ Orange low r...
