For Hermès, what began as a maker of leather equestrian goods for European noblemen would eventually grow into one of the most storied fashion labels in the world. In 1837, German-born French entrepreneur Thierry Hermès opened a saddle and harness purveyor in Paris. Gradually, the house extended into accessories and luggage for its riders, and today, in paying homage to its origins, the family-run luxury brand resurfaces horse motifs in everything from clothing and modernist jewelry to pillows and handbags.
The first top-handled bag ever produced by Hermès was the Haut à courroies, which made its debut in 1892. A tall bag secured with a folded leather flap (fastened with bridle-inspired straps), it was designed to transport riding boots and a harness.
As the world made the switch from horse to automobile, the bag adapted, becoming a multifunctional travel satchel instead of a designated saddlebag. Today, 120 years later, the HAC remains in Hermès’s line — and its distinctive flap and clasping straps have laid the groundwork for some of the house’s other iconic bags.
In the 1930s, Robert Dumas (son-in-law to Émile-Maurice Hermès, Thierry’s grandson) designed a smaller, trapezoidal take on the flap bag with a handle and two side straps. Later, actress Grace Kelly, then engaged to Prince Rainier of Monaco, is said to have used one of these bags to conceal her pregnancy during the 1950s. Because she was photographed constantly, the coverage catapulted her handbag to international popularity.
In 1977, Hermès officially renamed the model for her, and the Kelly bag was born. Each Kelly bag takes between 18 and 25 hours to produce, and its 680 hand stitches owe solely to one Hermès artisan.
Robert Dumas was also responsible for another one of the brand’s most iconic offerings: the launch of its first silk scarf on the occasion of Hermès’s 100th anniversary in 1937. Based on a woodblock designed by Dumas and printed on Chinese silk, the accessory was an immediate hit.
Today, vintage Hermès scarves, typically adorned in rich colors and elaborate patterns, serve many functions, just as they did back then. Well-heeled women wear it on their heads, around their necks and, in a genius piece of cross-promotion, tied to the straps of their Hermès bags. Kelly even once used one as a sling for her broken arm.
In 1981, Robert Dumas’s son Jean-Louis Dumas, then Hermès chairman, found himself sitting next to French actress and musician Jane Birkin on a plane, where she was complaining about finding a suitable carryall for the necessary accoutrements of motherhood. After the two travelers were properly introduced, Birkin helped design Jean-Louis’s most famous contribution to the Hermès canon: the Birkin bag, a roomy, square catchall with the HAC’s trademark leather flap top and the addition of a lock and key.
Owing to the brand’s legendary commitment to deft, handcrafted construction, the Birkin is an investment that is coveted by collectors everywhere.
While the Kelly and Birkin may be standouts, gracing the arms of everyone from royal heiresses to hip-hop stars in the past few decades, the handbags are but a small part of Hermès’s fashion offerings.
Since the 1920s, the brand has produced some of the most desirable leather goods in the world. There’s the Constance bag, a favorite of Jacqueline Kennedy, the recently relaunched 1970s-era Evelyne and, on the vintage market, a slew of designs dating back to the 1920s.
Good design never goes out of style. Find a variety of vintage Hermès handbags, day dresses, shoes and more on 1stDibs.
Sac Hermès Kelly 28 Box Noir 1978
By Hermès
Located in SÈVRES, FR
Découvrez ce superbe Hermès Kelly 28 Vintage en cuir Box noir, datant de 1978. Sublimé par ses élégantes finitions Gold, ce modèle emblématique est présenté dans un superbe état de c...
1970 Hermes Black Supple Box Leather Kelly Bag
By Hermès
Located in Toronto, Ontario
Vintage black box leather 32cm supple Kelly bag with gold hardware. Dates from 1970, as told by the Z blind stamp. Top handle, lock and key fob. Very minor scuffing on surface on majority of bag. One larger scratch near bottom left corner. In very good vintage condition with a clean interior. A timeless classic. Original shoulder strap included. The front hardware has been recently replaced by Hermes. First designed in 1932, the Kelly was introduced as a travel bag that was referred to as the sac à dépêches. It was then renamed to the Kelly after actress Grace Kelly was photographed numerous times with the bag (most notably, while she was pregnant and using it to cover her baby bump). The impeccable craftsmanship, classic silhouette, scarcity, and unique history make the Kelly a must-have for any handbag collector. It can take a single Hermès craftsman...
HERMES black Box leather KELLY 25 SELLIER Bag Phw
By Hermès
Located in Zürich, CH
This 100% authentic Hermès Kelly 25 Sellier bag in Noir (black) Veau Box leather is a true collector's piece, crafted from one of Hermès' most coveted and rare leathers. Veau Box lea...
$12,465
H 9.26 in W 12.6 in D 4.73 in
Hermès 1960s Sac Kelly 32 Bandouliere Black Box Leather Hand Bag strap Hermes
By Hermès
Located in PARIS, FR
Hermès Kelly bag (size 32) in black Box calfskin with gold-tone hardware; black leather interior featuring two slip pockets and one large slip pocket (non-zipped); includes original ...
1991 Hermes Vintage Black Box Calf Leather Kelly Sellier 28 Handbag
Located in PARIS, FR
1991 Hermes Box Calf Kelly Sellier 28 Handbag In good condition; shows slight signs of wear that have developed over time - Hermes Kelly handbag suitable for everyday use - No shoul...
Vintage HERMES Kelly 28 Box Calf Handbag Black GHW Circl U 1991
By Hermès
Located in Guangzhou, CN
Condition: Good,Minor signs of use, clean interior, light scratches on hardware. Accessories: Dust Bag,Shoulder Strap size: Width:28cm,height:22cm Designer:HERMES Model: Kelly 28...
Hermès Black Togo Leather Vintage Kelly 35cm Sellier
By Hermès
Located in Bishop's Stortford, Hertfordshire
Hermès Black Togo Leather Vintage Kelly 35cm Sellier Product Details Xupes Ref: CB1538 Brand: Hermès Model: Kelly 35cm Type: Top Handle, Shoulder Serial Number: [G] Age: 2003 Accomp...
HERMES black Togo leather KELLY 35 RETOURNE Bag GHW
By Hermès
Located in Zürich, CH
100% authentic Hermès Kelly II 35 bag in black Veau Togo leather with gold-plated hardware. Lined in black chèvre (goatskin) with a zipper pocket against the back and divided patch p...
1992 Hermes Black 35cm Kelly Supple Box Bag with Thick Strap
By Hermès
Located in Toronto, Ontario
Vintage black box leather 35cm supple Kelly bag with gold hardware. Dates from 1992, confirmed by the circle V blind stamp. Top handle, lock and key fob. Thick black cross body strap. Very minor scuffing on surface for the age of this bag. Interior zip compartment as well as two interior front slit pockets. In unused vintage condition with a clean interior. A timeless classic. The strap is a later addition and enhances the usefulness by enabling the owner to wear the bag cross body hands free. First designed in 1932, the Kelly was introduced as a travel bag that was referred to as the sac à dépêches. It was then renamed to the Kelly after actress Grace Kelly was photographed numerous times with the bag (most notably, while she was pregnant and using it to cover her baby bump). The impeccable craftsmanship, classic silhouette, scarcity, and unique history make the Kelly a must-have for any handbag collector. It can take a single Hermès craftsman...
Hermès Vintage Black Box Sellier Kelly 35 GHW
By Hermès
Located in New York, NY
Listing Title: Hermès Vintage Black Box Sellier Kelly 35 GHW SKU: 156085 Condition: Pre-owned Condition Description: Founded in Paris in 1837 as a harness workshop, Hermès has grown ...
Hermes Cuivre Novillo Leather 30cm Birkin Bag with Goldtone Hardware
By Hermès
Located in New York, NY
Hermes Cuivre Novillo Leather 30cm Birkin Bag with Goldtone Hardware Made In: France Year of Production: 2019 Color: Cuivre Hardware: Goldtone hardware Materials: Novillo leather Li...
Hermes Gold Togo Leather 25cm Birkin Bag Gold Hardware w/ Box
By Hermès
Located in New York, NY
Hermes Gold Togo Leather 25cm Birkin Bag w/ Gold Hardware Made In: France Year of Production: 2019 Color: Gold- tan Hardware: Goldtone Materials: Togo leather Lining: Chevre leather...
Hermes Rouge Extreme Togo Leather 28cm Retourne Kelly Bag GHW
By Hermès
Located in New York, NY
Hermes Rouge Extreme Togo Leather 28cm Kelly Bag GHW Made in: France Year of Production: 2019 Color: Rouge extreme Materials: Togo leather Lining: Chevre leather Hardware: Goldtone ...
Hermes Rose Tyrien/ Tosca Epsom Leather 32cm Candy Kelly Bag PHW
By Hermès
Located in New York, NY
Hermes Rose Tyrien/ Tosca Epsom Leather 32cm Candy Kelly Bag Made in: France Year of Production: 2013 Color: Rose tyrein Materials: Epsom leather Lining: Tosca chevre leather Hardwa...
Hermes Rose Tyrien/ Rubis Epsom Leather 35cm Candy Birkin Bag PHW
By Hermès
Located in New York, NY
Hermes Rose Tyrien/ Rubis Epsom Leather 35cm Candy Birkin Bag PHW. **Please note, this bag does not include the lock, key or clochette** Made In: France Year of Production: 2011 Co...
Tory Burch Black Lee Radziwill Convertible Shoulder/ Crossbody Bag
By Tory Burch
Located in New York, NY
Tory Burch Black Lee Radziwill Shoulder Crossbody Bag Color: Black Hardware: Goldtone Materials: Leather Lining: Textile Closure/Opening: Flap Interior Pockets: One slit and one zip...
What these styles lack in name recognition they more than make up for in cachet.
Before the Birkin there was the Haut à Courroies, which has become the chic carryall of choice for the league's most stylish athletes.
