For its extraordinary range of bracelets, watches, rings and other adornments, French luxury house Cartier is undeniably one of the most well known and internationally revered jewelers in the world among clients both existing and aspirational.
Perhaps 1847 was not the ideal time to open a new watchmaking and jewelry business, as the French Revolution was not kind to the aristocracy who could afford such luxuries. Nevertheless, it was the year Louis-François Cartier (1819–1904) — who was born into poverty — founded his eponymous empire, assuming control of the workshop of watchmaker Adolphe Picard, under whom he had previously been employed as an assistant. Of course, in the beginning, it was a relatively modest affair, but by the late 1850s, Cartier had its first royal client, Princess Mathilde Bonaparte, niece of Napoleon Bonaparte, who commissioned the jeweler to design brooches, earrings and other accessories.
Under the leadership of Louis-François’s son, Alfred, who took over in 1874, business boomed. Royalty around the world wore Cartier pieces, including Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, the Maharaja of Patiala and King Edward VII, who had 27 tiaras made by the jewelry house for his coronation in 1902 and issued Cartier a royal warrant in 1904. (Today, the British royal family still dons Cartier pieces; Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, regularly sports a Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch.)
Cartier’s golden years, however, began when Alfred introduced his three sons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, to the business. The brothers expanded Cartier globally: Louis reigned in Paris, Pierre in New York and Jacques in London, ensuring their brand’s consistency at their branches across the world. The trio also brought in such talents as Charles Jacqueau and Jeanne Toussaint.
One of Cartier’s earliest major successes was the Santos de Cartier watch — one of the world's first modern wristwatches for men. (Previously, a large number of people were using only pocket watches.) Louis designed the timepiece in 1904 for his friend, popular Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to be able to check the time more easily while flying.
Cartier’s other famous timepieces include the Tank watch, which was inspired by the linear form of military tanks during World War I, and the so-called mystery clocks. Invented by watchmaker and magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin and later crafted exclusively for Cartier in the house’s workshop by watchmaker Maurice Couët, the mystery clocks were so named because the integration of glass dials on which the clocks’ hands would seemingly float as well as structures that are hidden away within the base give the illusion that they operate without machinery.
On the jewelry side of the business, Cartier’s internationally renowned offerings include the Tutti Frutti collection, which featured colorful carved gemstones inspired by Jacques’s trip to India and grew in popularity during the Art Deco years; the panthère motif, which has been incorporated into everything from brooches to rings; and the Love bracelet, a minimal, modernist locking bangle inspired by medieval chastity belts that transformed fine jewelry.
While the Cartier family sold the business following the death of Pierre in 1964, the brand continues to innovate today, renewing old hits and creating new masterpieces.
Find contemporary and vintage Cartier watches, engagement rings, necklaces and other accessories on 1stDibs.
Vintage 1925 Tiffany & Co. Sterling Silver Mirror Compact
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Vintage 1925 Tiffany & Co. Sterling Silver Mirror Compact It is missing the closing clip, selling as is. Length 3.25” Width 2.5” Depth .75” Stamped Tiffany & Co., Sterling, Christ...
$4,500
H 2.5 in W 2.5 in D 0.4 in
French Art Deco Sterling Silver with Gemstone Rosetta Compact Case by Cartier
By Cartier
Located in Atlanta, GA
A fine Cartier compact case in the iconic Art Deco style, circa 1930s. Sterling silver with gold gilt interior that feature a mirror and a compartment for powder. The exterior featur...
Multi-gemstone, Silver
Goldsmiths and Silversmiths Co Brooch Box, 1920s to 1930s
Located in Braintree, GB
An antique brooch presentation box by the Goldsmiths and Silversmiths Company, London, circa 1920s to 1930s. Traditional fitted form designed to hold a brooch securely. The Goldsmit...
Silver
c. 1920 Antique Edwardian-Art Deco Transitional Sterling Silver Compact
Located in Honolulu, HI
A stunning masterpiece of early 20th-century craftsmanship, this antique silver compact serves as a perfect bridge between the romanticism of the Edwardian era and the geometric prec...
Silver Plate
Oversized Vintage French Silver Compact Case by Boucheron
By Boucheron
Located in Atlanta, GA
A large silver compact case with gilt surface and inset rubies by Boucheron Paris circa 1930s-1940s, of Art Deco period and style. The silver case is quote large compared to similar ...
Multi-gemstone, Silver
Antique sterling silver makeup box
Located in Autonomous City Buenos Aires, CABA
Antique Sterling Silver Makeup Box This is an antique silver makeup box, with a compact, rectangular design. Its surface is decorated with a motif of fine, engraved vertical lines, g...
Sterling Silver
Antique Art Deco Sheffield England Sterling Silver Powder Mirror Compact
Located in Dayton, OH
Antique art deco sterling silver makeup compact with mirror and keyring / chain. Marked with a crown, script T, and lion passant for Sheffield England. Monogram ECL, Dimensions: 6...
Sterling Silver
$1,495
H 0.31 in W 3.25 in D 4.75 in
CARTIER Sterling Silver & 14K Gold Cigarette Case with Monogram Cartouche
By Cartier
Located in Victoria, BC
An elegant and finely crafted Cartier cigarette case, executed in sterling silver with 14 karat gold accents, showcasing the refined craftsmansh...
Gold, Silver
$1,200
H 0.44 in W 2.88 in D 2.88 in
Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss 1920’s Sterling, 14k Gold and Sapphire Compact
By Wordley, Allsopp and Bliss
Located in Palm Springs, CA
A wonderful 1920’s compact retailed by Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss. We’ve had this compact retailed by various companies from Cartier to Black Starr and Go...
Multi-gemstone, Gold, Sterling Silver
Mid 20th Century Turkish Gilt Solid Silver Spectacle Case c.1940
Located in Royal Tunbridge Wells, Kent
Mid 20th Century Turkish gilt solid silver spectacle case. Designed with a geometric star pattern throughout with a blank cartouche in the center. Ornate interwoven patterns surround...
Silver
Antique Chinese Export Silver Cigarette Box by Wang Hing, Circa 1900
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
A fine and impressive antique solid Chinese Export Silver cigarette box; an addition to our diverse silver box collection This fine antique Chinese Export Silver (CES) cigarette box has a plain rectangular form with rounded corners. The surface of the body of the box is plain with an applied molded border to the rim. The subtly domed hinged cover of the box is ornamented with the contemporary engraved monograph initials ‘CBK’ in addition to a moulded border to the rim. The hallmarks struck to the underside of this impressive box include: Maker's mark: WH (Wang Hing & Company) Silver quality/purity mark: 90 (900/1000) Character mark: Untraced. Note: The majority of such boxes have a wood lining to the interior to provide strength, due to a poor gauge of silver; a sign of quality when examples are unlined and of solid silver. Condition This antique cigarette box...
Silver
20th Century Antique Queen Anne Style English Sterling Silver Box
By Robert Frederick Fox
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
An exceptional, fine and impressive antique George V English sterling silver box made in the George I style, an addition to our ornamental silverware collection. This exceptional antique George V sterling silver box has a plain circular form in the George I style. The surface of the box is plain and encircled with applied molded decoration. This impressive George I style box is fitted with a hinged hallmarked cover ornamented with a plain circular elevated panel to the center. The hinge is ornamented with a shaped undulating design in conjunction with the cover and the body. The box secures closed with a hallmarked hinged catch to the anterior edge, reflecting the same design to that of the posterior. This impressive example of antique silverware is an exceptional replica of an early Georgian...
Silver, Sterling Silver
Frederick Marson Antique Victorian English Sterling Silver Table Snuff Box
By Frederick Marson
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
A fine and impressive antique Victorian English sterling silver table snuff box; an addition to our diverse silverware collection. This fine antique sterling silver table snuff box has a rectangular form with rounded corners. The surface of this Victorian snuff box...
Silver, Sterling Silver
Antique George VI Art Deco Sterling Silver Biscuit Box Tin (1937)
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
An exceptional, fine and impressive antique George VI sterling silver biscuit box; an addition to our Art Deco silverware collection. This exceptional, fine and impressive antique G...
Sterling Silver
Antique William IV Sterling Silver Table Snuff Box
By Joseph Willmore
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
An exceptional, fine and impressive antique William IV English sterling silver table snuff box; an addition to our collectable silverware collection. This exceptional antique William IV sterling silver snuff box has a rectangular, rounded form. The body of the box is embellished with impressive chased floral motifs accented with scrolling stem and foliate ornamentation, all on a matte background. The decoration to the body incorporates a chased single leaf design to each corner, emanating from the rounded lower portion. The upper rim of the body and swept sides of the cover are encompassed with a continuous band of engine turned decoration. The underside of the box features a further panel of engine turned decoration. This exceptional example of antique silverware is fitted with a hinged hallmarked cover embellished with an engine turned bordered rectangular vacant cartouche to the upper plateau. The cover is further embellished with an exceptional cast and applied domed, incurved border to the upper portion, matching the ornamentation to that of the body and continuing to an impressive floral thumbpiece to the anterior edge. This antique sterling silver snuff box opens to reveal the original gilded interior. Condition This antique sterling silver snuff box is an exceptional gauge of silver, exceptional quality and in exceptional condition. The chased and applied ornamentation is all very sharp and the engine turned decoration is all very crisp. Full hallmarks struck to the interior of the box are all very clear. Reflections in photographs may detract from the true representation of this antique silverware. Dimensions Length 9.8cm/3.9" Width 6.5cm/2.6" Height 4.3cm/1.7" Weight 8.2 troy ounces/253g Maker: Joseph Willmore...
Silver, Sterling Silver
Antique Victorian Sterling Silver Combination Sovereign or Vesta Case
By Thomas Hayes
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
An exceptional, fine and impressive antique Victorian English sterling silver combination sovereign or vesta case, an addition to our diverse box and case collection. This exceptional antique Victorian English sterling silver combination vesta or sovereign case has a subtly domed rectangular, rounded form. The anterior and posterior surfaces of this silver case are plain and unembellished. This antique Victorian sterling silver sovereign case is fitted with a hinged hallmarked push fit cover allowing access to the hallmarked sprung sovereign holders...
Sterling Silver, Silver
Cartier understands the value of preserving the signature codes of great design, and how to tweak it for modern aficionados.
Throughout the season, timepieces are clues to the characters' character.
