When thinking about the colorful gemstones and flashy forms that so frequently characterized 1980s jewelry, it is impossible not to conjure images of the expressive confections that Paloma Picasso created for legendary American luxury house Tiffany & Co. For iconic work such as the Loving Heart ring and the Love & Kisses brooch, Picasso mined what she admired about urban street art in New York City’s grungy subways and brought it to fine jewelry-making on a global stage.
The daughter of artists Pablo Picasso and Françoise Gilot, Paloma was destined for creative success. She was determined to succeed on her own, however, and didn’t rely on her parents' renown. Picasso graduated from the Université de Paris in Nanterre, where she studied jewelry design and costuming. She spent a short period in the late 1960s as a fashion designer and a jewelry stylist for a Parisian theater company, an experience that essentially ignited Picasso’s career. Critics took notice, and her friend and French fashion designer Yves Saint-Laurent commissioned her to make costume jewelry for his runway collections.
Picasso designed a collection of necklaces and bracelets for the Greek jewelry firm Zolotas in the early 1970s, and her success with Saint-Laurent led to an important connection between Picasso and Tiffany & Co. design director John Loring. Picasso jumped at Loring’s request to present a table setting at a 1979 Tiffany & Co. exhibition, and within a single year, Loring commissioned her to design jewelry for the brand. Her first proper collection, Paloma's Graffiti, is her best-known work for the company.
Paloma had joined the illustrious ranks of Elsa Peretti and Angela Cummings — both revered jewelry designers who’d signed contracts with Tiffany just before her. Her Graffiti collection, which initially comprised a range of both slender and bubble-letter-like scribbles, X’s, O’s and other figures in 18-karat gold and palladium, was an extraordinary debut for her. Finding inspiration in Keith Haring’s Pop art as well as the street art that covered Manhattan subway cars of the era, Picasso introduced a graphic quality to her inaugural Tiffany line.
“In the ‘70s, people were starting to tag subways and walls, which had everyone outraged,” Picasso explained of the concepts behind her vibrant rings, earrings and necklaces. “I wanted to look at graffiti differently and try to make something positive out of it.”
Picasso would later draw on nature for her sterling silver-and-pearl Olive Leaf accessories at Tiffany and frequently created gold necklaces and bracelets that were set with a striking mix of colorful semi-precious stones.
Throughout her career, Picasso has garnered acclaim from many institutions such as the Fashion Group International and was presented with an award in 1988 by the Hispanic Designers Council. She has been recognized the National Museum of Women in the Arts, and her work is held in the collections of the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History and the Field Museum in Chicago.
Find vintage Paloma Picasso Tiffany & Co. brooches, bracelets and other jewelry on 1stDibs.
Vintage Tiffany & Co. Paloma Picasso France 18K Yellow Gold Cuff Bracelet #25991
By Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co.
Located in Washington Depot, CT
Vintage Tiffany & Co. Paloma Picasso France Wide Cuff Bracelet This Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. cuff bracelet is set in 18K Yellow Gold and has four gold overlapping sections. ...
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
$13,320
H 0.18 in W 1.26 in L 2.76 in
Tiffany & Co. 18K 750 Solid Yellow Gold Paloma Picasso Cuff Bangle Bracelet
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in New York, NY
Tiffany & Co. Vintage 18k Paloma Picasso Graffiti Motif Cuff Bangle Bracelet Metal Type: 18k Yellow Gold Total Item Weight: 51.3 Grams Length: 70.0 mm Width: 32.0 mm Height: 4.5...
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Tiffany & Co Peretti Yellow Gold Medium Bone Cuff Bracelet
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Southampton, PA
An iconic expression of Elsa Peretti’s visionary design, this authentic Tiffany & Co. Medium Bone Cuff is exquisitely crafted in rich 18K yellow gold. The sculptural silhouette f...
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Tiffany & Co Paloma Picasso Hammered Bangle Cuff Bracelet 18k Gold
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in New York, NY
Original Tiffany & Co. Picasso Designed Bangle Designed by Paloma Picasso Beautiful Hammered Texture 18k Yellow Gold approx 156 grams Width: approx 50mm wide / 2' inch. Circumfe...
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Tiffany Co 21st Century 18 Karat Gold Sterling 6.5 Inch Wide Cuff Bracelet
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in New York, NY
Introducing a timeless masterpiece from Tiffany & Co., this exquisite bracelet seamlessly blends the elegance of 18 karat gold with the classic allure of sterling silver. Crafted...
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Sterling Silver
18 Karat Yellow Gold Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. Bracelet
By Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co.
Located in Troy, MI
Timeless and classic with two of the most beloved designers, Paloma Picasso & Tiffany & Co! This 18 karat rich yellow gold subtle XO bracelet by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany &a...
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 1990s Tiffany & Co. Paloma Picasso X Cuff Bracelet
By Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co.
Located in New York, NY
Finely crafted in 18k yellow gold. Signed by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. Circa 1990s Size 6 1/2
18k Gold
$16,000
H 1.38 in W 1.38 in L 2.5 in
Tiffany & Co. Paloma Picasso 18 Karat Gold 'Double Loving' Bangle Cuff Bracelet
By Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co.
Located in Austin, TX
An iconic Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. "Double Loving" cuff bangle in 18k yellow gold. The sculptural cuff of high polished 18k yellow gold with three pair of Paloma Picasso's ...
18k Gold, Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 1990’s 14k Yellow Gold Wide Cuff Bangle Bracelet
Located in Boston, MA
Exuding minimalist glamour, this vintage 14k yellow gold cuff bracelet from the 1990s makes a bold, contemporary statement. The bracelet takes the form of a substantial wide cuff that wraps regally around the wrist. With a substantial width of 0.88 inches (2.2 cm), the cuff has an undeniable presence and eye-catching appeal. Rendered in rich 14k yellow gold, the cuff showcases the eternal beauty of the warm, buttery precious metal. The minimalist design allows the natural radiance of the gold to take center stage. The outer surface has a bright polished finish that catches the light beautifully, while the interior side has a satin brushed finish for a subtle contrast in textures. Despite its striking, oversized width, the cuff remains comfortable to wear thanks to the hollow, open design on the back side. This ingenious construction allows the cuff to have an impressive weight of 35.14 grams without feeling heavy or cumbersome on the wrist. With an open design that slips over the wrist, the circumference is 7” which fits most wrists. Perfect for day or night, this iconic 1990s piece epitomizes understated luxury with its timeless combination of 14k gold and a chic, minimalist aesthetic. A bonafide statement maker, this wide cuff bangle...
Yellow Gold, 14k Gold
Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. 18k Yellow Gold & Silver Links Bracelet
By Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co.
Located in New York, NY
Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. 18k Yellow Gold & Silver Links Bracelet Composed of concave circular links, one side is made of 18 karat yellow gold and the other is made of silver...
18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Sterling Silver
