Jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger once said that he strived to “make everything look as if it were growing, uneven, at random, organic, in motion.” His jewels interpreted the vitality of the natural world with lively designs that included a moonstone-topped jellyfish brooch with sapphire tentacles exuding a watery shimmer and a ring encrusted with a burst of diamonds that “bloomed” like a flower bud.
A self-taught jeweler, Schlumberger’s mastery of color as well as his expertise as a draftsman brought his fantastic ideas to life. Born to a leading textile manufacturing family in Alsace, France, Schlumberger took to drawing as a child and showed promise as an artist, but his parents instead sent him to study banking in Berlin in the 1930s. Uninspired, he departed for Paris and began creating buttons for Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli, who also commissioned him for costume jewelry.
One of Schlumberger’s early pieces — a cigarette lighter in the form of a fish whose head opened to reveal the flame — demonstrated his skill for capturing the vivacity of nature in precious metal. The designer’s imaginative jewelry was in contrast to popular geometric lines of Art Deco, an independent vision he affirmed in the extravagant 1941 Trophée de Vaillance brooch created for fashion editor Diana Vreeland. An extravagant confection of diamonds, amethyst, rubies and gold, the brooch featured gemstones adorning an intricate intersection of tiny spears and a breastplate over a glittering shield.
After serving in the French army and the Free French forces during World War II — and surviving the Battle of Dunkirk — Schlumberger left war-torn Europe for New York and in 1946 established a jewelry salon with Nicolas Bongard. There, his vibrant work caught the eye of Tiffany & Co. After joining the American luxury jewelry house in 1956, he soon had his own studio on the mezzanine of Tiffany’s Fifth Avenue store that he accessed by a private elevator. In his workshop, Schlumberger used a rainbow of gemstones, gold and diamonds to create some of the company’s most beguiling designs.
From striking earrings shaped like soaring wings to diamond birds perched on glittering gemstones, each of Schlumberger’s Tiffany designs dazzled. His supporters included Bunny Mellon, whose love for horticulture inspired commissions such as the Jasmine necklace with diamond blossoms flowering from a garland of colored sapphires, and Jacqueline Kennedy, who wore his Croisillon bracelets so often they became known as “Jackie bracelets.” Schlumberger retired from Tiffany in the late 1970s, but decades after his designs were introduced many of his popular pieces remain in production.
On 1stDibs, find an extraordinary range of vintage Jean Schlumberger jewelry designed for Tiffany & Co.
DAVID WEBB 1976 Enameled Bracelet In Solid 18kt Yellow Gold With Diamonds
By David Webb
Located in Miami, FL
Enameled bracelet designed by David Webb (1925-1975). This is a beautiful colorful bracelet, created in New York City at the jewelry atelier of David Webb, back in the 1970's. The b...
Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold, Enamel
Boucheron 1937 Paris Art Deco Bracelet 18Kt Gold and 5.44 Ctw Diamonds & Rubies
By Boucheron
Located in Miami, FL
A bracelet designed by Boucheron. Extremely rare and beautiful bracelet, created during the art deco period in Paris France by the famous jewelry house of Boucheron, back in the 1937. The bracelet is one of a kind and a highly collectible piece, published in the Gilles Neret book. It was carefully crafted in solid yellow gold of 18 karats with high polished finish and platinum parts for the setting of the diamonds. The bracelet has been designed with retro-modernist patterns and is embellished with a gorgeous selection of fifty earth mined, natural gemstones such: Burmese translucent rubies and white colorless diamonds. It is fitted with a concealed hinged folded snap lock. Diamonds: Mount in flush pave settings, with 28 old European round cut diamonds with a total weight of 2.80 carats, white colorless E/F color, VS clarity. Rubies: Mount in a channel setting, with 22 calibrated French faceted cut of natural vivid red rubies with a combined weight of 2.64 carats. The rubies are gems quality, not heated and Burmese origin. Weight: 66.85 Grams, (42.85 Dwt). Measurements: 7.75 Inches (19.69 Cm) and a width of 28 mm (1.10 Inch). Hallmarks: Stamped several times with French national marks such: the eagle head and the dog head for the assay and warranty of the 18kt gold and the platinum respectively and signed in full, "BOUCHERON PARIS". Boucheron Frédéric Boucheron founded the Maison Boucheron in 1858. To this day, the Boucheron jewelry house is known for its intricate, free spirited style. Boucheron's designs are always creative and display outstanding French craftsmanship and characterful stones. He quickly became well known for the exceptional quality of his precious stones. Around 1880, he was the first modern jeweler bold enough to engrave diamonds with flowers...
Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum
David Webb 1977 New York Vintage Bangle Bracelet in Solid 18kt Yellow Gold
By David Webb
Located in Miami, FL
Bangle bracelet designed by David Webb (1925-1975). An sleek and elegant bangle bracelet, created in New York city at the atelier of David Webb, back in the late 1970's. This bracelet has been crafted with four fluted stations, in solid rich yellow gold of 18 karats, with high polished finish. It is fitted with an invisible hinge, a push boxed lock and a hinged security slash for extra safety. Weight: 94.74 Grams (60.74 Dwt.). Size: The inside circumference is 6.65 Inches (17 Cm). Measurements: Thickness of 15 mm (0.59 Inches). Hallmarks: Stamped, with the maker's mark, the gold assay hallmark and signed, "WEBB 18KT". David Webb (1925-1975) was an American jeweler. On July 28, 1948, he founded David Webb, the company, which opened at 2 West 46th Street. Among his clients were Elizabeth Taylor, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Barbara Streisand and Beyoncé have also worn his jewelry. Born in Asheville, North Carolina in 1925, Webb was a self-taught designer whose work included dragon bracelets, Maltese cross brooches and animal motifs. In 1964, The Duke of Windsor purchased a bracelet for his wife. Diana Vreeland, a noted columnist and editor of Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue, was often seen with a David Webb black-and-white enamel zebra bangle...
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Seaman Schepps 1970 New York Rare Bracelet in 18Kt Gold with Red Coral and Pearl
By Seaman Schepps
Located in Miami, FL
Statement bracelet designed by Seaman Schepps. Magnificent vintage colorful piece, created in New York city by Seaman Schepps, back in the 1970. This one-of-a-kind flexible bracelet...
Coral, Pearl, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
TIFFANY & CO. 1979 Angela Cummings Geometric Bracelet 18Kt Gold Jade & Coral
By Angela Cummings for Tiffany & Co.
Located in Miami, FL
Geometric bangle-bracelet designed by Angela Cummings for Tiffany & Co. This is a very rare bangle-bracelet created by Angela Cummings for Tiffany & Co. back in 1979. The modernist ...
Coral, Black Jade, Jade, Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
Tiffany & Co 1977 Elsa Peretti Escorpio Cuff Bracelet In 18Kt Gold And Gemstones
By Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co.
Located in Miami, FL
Abstract Cuff Bracelet designed by Elsa Peretti (1940-2021) for Tiffany & Co. Exceptionally rare sculptural piece, created in New York city by Elsa Peretti for the Tiffany Studios, ...
Coral, Jade, Black Jade, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Tiffany & Co 18K Yellow Gold Jean Schlumberger Red Enamel Croisillon Bracelet
By Jean Schlumberger
Located in New York, NY
A striking vintage Schlumberger bangle crafted in rich 18K yellow gold, showcasing the designer’s unmistakable sculptural aesthetic and bold use of color. The bracelet features a con...
18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger 18K Yellow Gold Red Enamel Dots and Losange Bracelet
By Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.
Located in New York, NY
A striking vintage Schlumberger “Dot Losange” bangle by Tiffany & Co., crafted in rich 18K yellow gold and accented with vivid red enamel. The design is composed of 19 sculptural...
Yellow Gold, Enamel, 18k Gold
Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger 18 Karat Yellow Gold Red Enamel Bracelet
By Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.
Located in Philadelphia, PA
This iconic Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger Dot Losange bracelet is masterfully crafted in 18k yellow gold, featuring vibrant red paillonné enamel accented with alternating raised gold do...
18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Tiffany & Co. J. Schlumberger Gold Red Enamel & Diamond Bracelet
By Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.
Located in New York, NY
Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger 18K Yellow Gold Vibrant Red Enamel & Diamond Bracelet An exquisite creation, a dark red enamel hinged bangle by Jean Schlumberger. This bangle is ...
Diamond, Gold, Enamel
Tiffany & Co. Jean Schlumberger 18K Gold Red Enamel Bangle Bracelet
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Houston, TX
An uncommon masterpiece by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Red Vitreous Paillonné Enamel bangle bracelet in 18K yellow gold. Circa 1990. Signed: Tiffany & Co, Schlumberge...
18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Vintage Tiffany & Co. Red & White Enamel Bracelet Yellow Gold.
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in New York, NY
Vintage Tiffany & Co. Red and white enamel bracelet crafted in 18K Yellow Gold. The bracelet features twist design, alternating white and red enamel covered strands. Equipped wit...
Yellow Gold, Enamel
Dazzling pieces by the late designer were worn by some of the biggest names in Hollywood.
Someone wanted to “modernize” the Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. masterworks, but Mahnaz Collection came to their rescue. Here, the dealer explains precisely why they’re such an extraordinary find.
