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1930s Castellani Quality Gold Filigree & Granulation Enamel & Turquoise Earrings

$8,200per set

£6,179.53per set

€7,220.93per set

CA$11,636.42per set

A$11,671.79per set

CHF 6,770.30per set

MX$142,476.56per set

NOK 78,419.19per set

SEK 80,256.76per set

DKK 53,976.24per set

About the Item

On par with Castellani goldsmithing since the mid-1900s, which revived ancient Etruscan techniques admired for their highly intricate and ornate gilding and metalwork, these masterfully crafted yellow-gold-gilt floret earrings feature bezel-set round speckled greenish turquoise cabochons with open backs that are surrounded by richly textured spiraling, layered or twisted wire filigree and six-sphere granulation, which are articulated and applied around a blue enameled scroll-motif along the scalloped edges. The same enameled scroll-motif is seen in a photo of a Castellani-made brooch (Fig 4-1) in the book Castellani And Italian Archeological Jewelry by Susan Weber Soros and Stephanie Walker. Supporting old age with normal wear, minute points of verdigris are found at just the top edges of each earring clip, along with some gilt loss on the backs. On one of the backs of the c1930s clips, there seems to be an unclear tiny rectangular stamp below what may be a worn engraved signature. Otherwise--given the age of the earrings' original gilt-brass clips, and the Etruscan Revival style with multiple fine-jewelry elements--it is possible that these were commissioned by French fashion designer Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel for one of her couture clients. By the early 1930s, she had begun reinterpreting Etruscan artifacts with her favorite Paris-based parurier, the Sicilian goldsmith Duke Fulco di Verdura. Some of his designs from this period in the book, Jewelry By Chanel, by Patrick Mauries also feature colorful floret designs, scroll motifs, and intricate work in enamel with real gems like these earrings. Chanel costume-jewelry parures, which she commissioned to compliment a single unique clothing ensemble, were not consistently branded until the late 1950s, and even then possibly only on one piece among the "matching" set. So identification of her earlier jewelry often relies on other hallmarks, such as the ones that we noted. We also point out that this button-earring design foreshadows Chanel's mid-century iconic gilt wire "bird nest" earrings, which each feature a round turquoise-glass egg surrounded by crystals instead of granulation. On 1stDibs, that ready-to-wear design decades later by goldsmith Robert Goosens for Chanel consistently sells for around US$3,000. We price ours listing higher because the earrings are unique and older.

Metal:
Brass,Enamel,Gilt Metal,Yellow Gold,Mixed Metal
Stone:
Turquoise
Stone Cut:
Cabochon
Weight:
9 g
Dimensions:
Depth: 0.75 in (19.05 mm)Diameter: 0.75 in (19.05 mm)
Sold As:
Set of 2
Style:
Etruscan Revival
Place of Origin:
Unknown
Period:
Early 20th Century
Date of Manufacture:
c1930
Condition:
Wear consistent with age and use.
Seller Location:
Chicago, IL
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU3244218613112

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