One of the world’s foremost jewelry houses, Van Cleef & Arpels is particularly noted for a focus on technical virtuosity, craftsmanship and artistry, evident since its beginning. Rather than create earrings, bracelets, necklaces and other adornments primarily for the aim of displaying of wealth and opulence, Van Cleef & Arpels sought to produce jewelry that projected the wearer’s taste and style.
The company was formed a year after the 1895 marriage of Alfred Van Cleef, the son of a gem cutter, to Estelle Arpels, daughter of precious-stones dealer Salomon Arpels. Ten years later, Van Cleef & Arpels opened its first boutique on the Place Vendôme in Paris, setting the march on a square now crowded with dealers in bijouterie. (The company still occupies the New York flagship store opened in 1939 at Fifth Avenue and 57th Street.)
Born from a union of expertise in both jewelry making and gem selection, Van Cleef & Arpels distinguished itself with both the consistency of the color and clarity of its stones and the creativity of its designs. In doing so, the house would win a roster of dedicated, fashion-conscious clients that included the Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, Barbara Hutton, Jacqueline Onassis and Elizabeth Taylor. In 1933, Van Cleef & Arpels patented its trademark Mystery Setting — a technique by which gems are fitted into an intricate matrix of slots and “drawers” that keep the setting hidden. Another signal innovation was the Zip necklace, introduced in 1951, which can be worn either around the neck or, with the zipper closed, as a bracelet.
But as much as to the firm’s craftsmanship, clients have been drawn by the insouciance and playfulness of Van Cleef & Arpels designers, as well as their attunement to the cultural climate. After the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922, the company produced several lavish pieces featuring hieroglyphics and other Egyptian motifs to go along with the geometric Art Deco jewelry of that decade and the next. Following World War II, as symbols of freedom and rebirth, the firm focused on naturalistic forms such as birds, flowers, fruit and flying insects. High society’s 1960s fascination with the Near East and India prompted such pieces as the best-selling Alhambra necklace, popularized by Princess Grace.
Lately, attention among collectors and connoisseurs has centered on Van Cleef & Arpels’s quality of workmanship as much as its glamour. The firm was the subject of a 2012 show at the Cooper-Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, as well as exhibitions at the Bowers Museum in Santa Ana, California, in 2013 and at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris in 2014.
Find an exquisite collection of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry on 1stDibs.
Van Cleef & Arpels Gold and Diamond Suite of 'Chevalerie' Jewels France
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
Van Cleef & Arpels Gold and Diamond Suite of 'Chevalerie' Jewels, Comprising a necklace-bracelet combination, composed of textured oval-shaped links, accented by round diamonds,...
Diamond, Gold
Van Cleef and Arpels Vintage 'Alhambra' Diamond and Lapis Necklace
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
Van Cleef and Arpels Vintage 'Alhambra' Diamond and Lapis Necklace This neckace has 20 clover motifs (10 with lapis and 10 with diamonds all in 18k yellow gold. Total weight of diamo...
Diamond, 18k Gold
MOLINA Sapphire And Diamond Necklace
By Molina
Located in New York, NY
MOLINA Sapphire And Diamond Necklace In 18k White Gold. The necklace features 3-row design. Center row set with 132 graduating in size, cut cornered rectangular sapphires with total ...
Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold
Van Cleef And Arpels Lapis Lazuli Alhambra Necklace
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
Van Cleef And Arpels Lapis Lazuli and 18k yellow gold Vintage Alhambra necklace. Accented with 20 clover motifs. Equipped with spring ring closure. Inscribed: VCA, 750, XXXX L90. St...
Lapis Lazuli, Yellow Gold
Van cleef & Arpels "Butterfly" Diamond Necklace & Earrings Suit
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
Van Cleef & Arpels diamond "Butterfly" earrings and necklace suite. Two Butterfly pendant, 18K white gold, round and marquise-cut diamonds; diamond quality with 36 diamonds (...
Diamond, 18k Gold
Alexandre Reza Lapis Lazuli and Diamond Ring in 18k Yellow Gold
Located in New York, NY
Alexandre Reza Lapis Lazuli And Diamond Ring In 18k Yellow Gold. This necklace consists of 40 lapis lazuli and diamond tear drop shaped links Each link set with lapis lazuli panel...
Van Cleef & Arpels Sapphire and Diamond Necklace in 18K Yellow Gold
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
Carat Weight: Sapphires approx. 42 cts. & 20 cts. diamonds Color/Clarity: Madagascar No Heat; G-H VS Certifications: AGL Size: 14 inches Creator: Van Cleef & Arpels, France M...
Diamond, Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Van Cleef & Arpels VCA Sapphire Diamond Choker 18k Gold Necklace & Bracelets
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Miami, FL
Van Cleef & Arpels Sapphire & Diamond Link Choker Necklace / Convertible Bracelets 18K Yellow Gold – Signed – With Appraisal An exquisite and rare Van Cleef & Arpels choker necklace,...
Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold
Van Cleef & Arpels 30cts Diamond Ceylon Sapphire Necklace in 18 Karat Gold
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Dallas, TX
Van Cleef & Arpels dazzling collar necklace bursting with brilliance of approximately 19 carats of finest white diamonds which are complemented by 11 carats of vividly-colored blue and yellow Ceylon sapphires (GIA and AGL certified as Ceylon/Sri Lanka geographic origin), all meticulously set in 18 karat yellow gold. The necklace is designed as a seamless series of thirty-two gold panels, each with a gracefully scalloped outer edge and pavé-set with brilliant-cut round diamonds. Each of the seven center-front panels is embellished by a large pear-shaped sapphire of richly saturated hue, alternating between yellow and blue colored sapphires. The panels gently curve from their inner to outer edge, giving maximum exposure to impeccably set diamonds and resulting in exceptional overall necklace brilliance. The sapphires add just the right amount of gem opulence and intrigue to this elegant design. Van Cleef expertly uses each necklace element – its scalloped silhouette, curved panels, and sparkling pavéd diamond surface – to create an appearance of a luminous and dressy lace collar. True to its luxurious French heritage...
Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, White Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Go...
Van Cleef & Arpels Natural Diamond 18K Yellow Gold Necklace and Earring Set
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
An immaculate diamond and yellow gold necklace and earring set by Van Cleef & Arpels. This beautiful set by Van Cleef & Arpels consists of three intricate and matching motifs encrust...
Diamond, Yellow Gold
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Ceylon Yellow & Blue Sapphires Necklace/Detachable Pendant
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
A masterwork of vibrant color and exquisite craftsmanship, this VAN CLEEF & ARPELS necklace with a detachable pendant radiates opulent beauty and refined artistry. Fashioned in 18K y...
Diamond, Emerald, Blue Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Van Cleef & Arpels Sapphire Diamond Pendant 3.00 Carats 18K White Gold
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Chicago, IL
An elegant and refined pendant by Van Cleef & Arpels, crafted in luminous 18 karat white gold and set with a beautiful combination of natural sapphires and diamonds. The design ...
Diamond, White Diamond, Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
