Jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger once said that he strived to “make everything look as if it were growing, uneven, at random, organic, in motion.” His jewels interpreted the vitality of the natural world with lively designs that included a moonstone-topped jellyfish brooch with sapphire tentacles exuding a watery shimmer and a ring encrusted with a burst of diamonds that “bloomed” like a flower bud.
A self-taught jeweler, Schlumberger’s mastery of color as well as his expertise as a draftsman brought his fantastic ideas to life. Born to a leading textile manufacturing family in Alsace, France, Schlumberger took to drawing as a child and showed promise as an artist, but his parents instead sent him to study banking in Berlin in the 1930s. Uninspired, he departed for Paris and began creating buttons for Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli, who also commissioned him for costume jewelry.
One of Schlumberger’s early pieces — a cigarette lighter in the form of a fish whose head opened to reveal the flame — demonstrated his skill for capturing the vivacity of nature in precious metal. The designer’s imaginative jewelry was in contrast to popular geometric lines of Art Deco, an independent vision he affirmed in the extravagant 1941 Trophée de Vaillance brooch created for fashion editor Diana Vreeland. An extravagant confection of diamonds, amethyst, rubies and gold, the brooch featured gemstones adorning an intricate intersection of tiny spears and a breastplate over a glittering shield.
After serving in the French army and the Free French forces during World War II — and surviving the Battle of Dunkirk — Schlumberger left war-torn Europe for New York and in 1946 established a jewelry salon with Nicolas Bongard. There, his vibrant work caught the eye of Tiffany & Co. After joining the American luxury jewelry house in 1956, he soon had his own studio on the mezzanine of Tiffany’s Fifth Avenue store that he accessed by a private elevator. In his workshop, Schlumberger used a rainbow of gemstones, gold and diamonds to create some of the company’s most beguiling designs.
From striking earrings shaped like soaring wings to diamond birds perched on glittering gemstones, each of Schlumberger’s Tiffany designs dazzled. His supporters included Bunny Mellon, whose love for horticulture inspired commissions such as the Jasmine necklace with diamond blossoms flowering from a garland of colored sapphires, and Jacqueline Kennedy, who wore his Croisillon bracelets so often they became known as “Jackie bracelets.” Schlumberger retired from Tiffany in the late 1970s, but decades after his designs were introduced many of his popular pieces remain in production.
On 1stDibs, find an extraordinary range of vintage Jean Schlumberger jewelry designed for Tiffany & Co.
Tiffany & Co 1940s 14k Gold Compact Mirror Box With Ruby Detail
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
This exquisite compact mirror box from Tiffany & Co., dating back to the 1940s, is a stunning representation of vintage elegance and craftsmanship. Crafted from 14k gold, the sur...
14k Gold
Tiffany & Co. Ruby Diamond Gold Compact Powder Case
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
The compact features square step-cut rubies weighing a total of approximately 1.25 carats, enhanced by single-cut diamonds weighing a total of 0.15 carat, set in 14k gold, marked Tif...
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 1950s David Webb Gold Clutch with 10.00 Carat Ruby and Diamonds
By David Webb
Located in New York, NY
Finely crafted in 18k with a carved Ruby weighing approximately 10.00 carats, 44 Round Brilliant cut Diamonds weighing approximately a total of 4.00 carats, and a mirror. Signed by D...
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Vintage Tiffany & Co. 14K Yellow Gold Ruby Powder Case Compact Mirror Box
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Houston, TX
Brand: Tiffany & Co. Gender: Unisex Metal Type: 14K Yellow Gold Length: 2.75 inches Weight: 121.30 grams TIFFANY & CO. 14K yellow gold vintage, ruby COMPACT. Engraved wi...
Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage Cartier Ruby Floral Pill Box
By Cartier
Located in London, GB
Here we have a truly exquisite 18ct yellow gold pill box by the renowned luxury jeweller Cartier. Beautifully crafted, the box is adorned with an intricate floral motif and accented ...
Ruby, 18k Gold
Antique 18kt Yellow Gold Carnelian Snuff Box, Rococo Design, Europe
Located in Braintree, GB
Antique 18kt yellow gold snuff box, featuring a carnelian stone set within an ornate, scrollwork border. Material: Crafted in 18kt yellow gold, the box showcases an ornate, Rococo-...
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
9k Yellow Gold and Ruby Compact by Boucheron (1964)
By Boucheron
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
An exceptional, fine and impressive vintage 9 karat yellow gold and 0.86 carat ruby compact made by Boucheron - boxed; an addition to our diverse ornamental collection. This exceptional vintage 9 karat yellow gold case has a rectangular form, with a convex base and cover. The surface of the box is embellished with impressive engine turned decoration. This exceptional gold compact is fitted with an impressive flush hinged cover; the flush hinge indicates the high quality of the piece. The anterior edge of the cover features a push fit catch ornamented with an impressive collet set 0.86ct cabochon cut ruby. This impressive compact opens to reveal the original integrated bevelled mirror and powder compartment; this compact can be used without the original inset, detachable gold powder holder. The interior rim of the case bears the renowned maker's/retailer's mark 'Boucheron', in addition to full London hallmarks to the base. This exceptional Boucheron compact...
Gold
Gold and Enamel, Diamond Pills Box, Early 20th Century
Located in Paris, FR
Enamelled gold handbag box in the shape of a shell. The finely chased gold is adorned with geometric guilloché and enhanced with translucent opalescent white and royal blue enamels, ...
Gold, Enamel
Tiffany & Co. Yellow Gold Jewelry Box
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in New York, NY
This is a beautiful Tiffany and co gold jewelry box made in 15 karat yellow gold. This jewelry box is gorgeous and unique. Measurements: length : 6.5 inch width : 3.5 inch depth :...
15k Gold, Yellow Gold
$8,921
H 0.51 in W 0.82 in L 1.61 in
Vintage Giaconi & Gioli Italian Gold and Diamond Double Pill Box, Circa 1970
Located in London, GB
A Vintage Giaconi & Gioli Italian gold double pill box, designed as an oval cylinder, with a reeded pattern and polished ends, with rose gold edges, with a rose gold, diagonal dividi...
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold
Tiffany & Co. 1960's 0.70 CTW Ruby 18 Karat Yellow Gold Vintage Seashell Brooch
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Designed as a fanning shell with grooved fluted texture featuring channel set square step-cut rubies Weighing approximately 0.70 carats - transparent medium purplish red in color Acc...
Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Tiffany & Co. 1960's Enamel 18 Karat Yellow Gold Vintage Brooch
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Designed with tiered ruffle edges and engraved linear texture Featuring alternating tiers of bassé-taille enamel - transparent medium green Glossed over linear engraving and accented...
Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Cartier 1950's Diamond Ruby 18 Karat Two-Tone Gold Vintage Leaf Brooch
By Cartier
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Designed as two stylized minimalist leaves - one is yellow and the other is white gold Centering stems channel set with baguette cut rubies and diamonds, respectively Rubies weigh ap...
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
Tiffany & Co. 1980's 18 Karat Yellow Gold Vintage Squiggle Cushion Brooch
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Designed as a domed cushion shaped form With grooved organic lines throughout With high polish finish Completed by hinged pinstem With looped watchpin Stamped for 18 karat gold Fully...
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Victorian Ruby Diamond 14 Karat Yellow Gold Fireplace Bellow Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Depicted as an antique fireplace bellow wrapped in a meandering ribbon Bellow is accented by appliquè while ribbon features rubies and diamonds Weighing collectively approximately ...
Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Bulgari 1990's Diamond Tourmaline 18 Karat Yellow Gold Vintage Passo Doppio Ring
By Bulgari
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Designed as a domed form pavé set with round brilliant cut diamonds Weighing approximately 1.16 carats total - G color with VS2 clarity Flanked by carved faceted tourmaline inlay mea...
Diamond, Tourmaline, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Dazzling pieces by the late designer were worn by some of the biggest names in Hollywood.
Someone wanted to “modernize” the Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. masterworks, but Mahnaz Collection came to their rescue. Here, the dealer explains precisely why they’re such an extraordinary find.
