In 1919, Mario Buccellati (1891–1965) launched his eponymous jewelry house with the opening of his first shop in Milan and quickly built a reputation for his richly embellished traforato, or finely pierced goldwork. The Ancona, Italy–born jeweler’s workmanship was in a class of its own. His pieces were exquisite, yet the gemstones themselves were never too flashy, elevated instead by the designs’ intricate metalsmithing.
A love of tradition set Mario and his fine jewelry house apart in the competitive Italian market and remains a point of pride for the family, which is still closely tied to the business even as it is now owned by Richemont, a luxury conglomerate that also counts Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels among its subsidiaries.
A young Mario Buccellati apprenticed with famed goldsmith Beltrami e Besnati in the early 1900s, although many of the goldsmithing techniques synonymous with Buccellati go as far back as the Italian Renaissance. The family lineage is also said to include 18th-century jeweler Contardo Buccellati.
Owing to the founder’s advanced metalworking skills, the brand is known for designs that feature metal with the delicacy of lace and draw on the wonders of the natural world. The house’s work is typified by intricate gemstone settings that emphasize their natural color and dense engraving techniques that transform the texture of gold.
One of the time-honored engraving techniques that has come to characterize Buccellati’s work — techniques that require apprenticeships and training in the fine jeweler’s workshops — is called rigato. It involves the engraving of a precious metal with a series of parallel lines to achieve a fabric-like effect.
Rigato is on luminous display in the house’s Macri collection of earrings, cuff bracelets and other accessories. A painstaking attention to detail is pronounced in the celebrated Macri, Bartolomeo and Unica collections — witness the striking honeycomb motif, a house signature, that characterizes the Unica collection’s Caterina bracelet, for example.
The Macri collection was the work of Mario’s son, Gianmaria Buccellati, an award-winning jeweler and internationally renowned silversmith who worked to bring the brand to the global stage by overseeing the opening of boutiques in Tokyo, Paris, California and elsewhere.
In 1951, Mario opened his first store in New York City; today the company operates boutiques worldwide. In 2019, the company celebrated its centennial with a new flagship in Paris and the Vintage collection, which features some of its most enduring designs.
On 1stDibs, find a collection of authentic Buccellati jewelry, including earrings, necklaces, rings and other accessories.
Vintage 14.00 carat citrine 14k yellow gold cocktail ring
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Center stone: Oval cut citrine Weight: Approximately 14.00 carats Metal: 14k yellow gold Era: Vintage Circa: 1970's Hallmarks: Purity marks Size: 5.75 and can be resized Gram weight:...
Citrine, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage Citrine and 9 Carat Gold Cocktail Ring
Located in Chipping Campden, GB
The gorgeous citrine stone is a soft yellow colour set in simple claws and a decorative gallery. Modelled in 9carat gold. Fully hallmarked London 1977. Ring Size: S or 9 Stone Diam...
Citrine, Gold
Le Vian 14k Yellow Gold Citrine and Diamond Cocktail Ring
Located in Houston, TX
This exquisite Le Vian statement ring is crafted in 14K yellow gold and features a stunning oval-cut citrine, measuring approximately 16.3 x 12mm with an estimated weight of 12 carat...
Diamond, Citrine, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
11 Carat Oval Citrine & Round Citrine Halo 14K Yellow Gold Vintage Cocktail Ring
Located in Miami, FL
14K Vintage Gemstone Ring 14KY Oval Checkerboard Cut Citrine 17x12mm ~11ct) Oval Citrine w/ (18) Round Citrine side stones 14KY Vintage Ring 7.00g size 9.75 (ring: 12x20mm total) Go...
Citrine, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
$2,640Sale Price / item|20% Off
20.96 CTW Large Citrine Regal Cocktail Ring with Diamonds in 14k Yellow Gold
By VR Jewels
Located in New York, NY
20.96 CTW Large Citrine Regal Cocktail Ring with Diamonds in 14K Gold featuring natural citrine of 20.96 carats and diamonds of 0.96 carats. The gorgeous handcrafted ring goes with e...
Citrine, Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Mesmerizing 7.38ct Citrine & Natural Diamond Cocktail Ring in 20K Yellow Gold
Located in רמת גן, IL
Turn every glance into a double-take with this radiant masterpiece. At the heart of the ring, a bold 4.88ct fiery orange Citrine takes center stage, flanked by two luminous yellow Ci...
Citrine, Diamond, Yellow Gold
7.10 Carats Exquisite Natural Citrine and Diamond 14K Solid Yellow Gold Ring
Located in Los Angeles, CA
7.10 Carats Exquisite Natural Citrine and Diamond 14K Solid Yellow Gold Ring Suggested Replacement Value: 5,500.00 Total Natural Citrine Weight is: Approx. 6.00 Carats Citrine Me...
Citrine, Diamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 17.67 carat Citrine and 1.33 carat Diamond Yellow Gold Cocktail Ring
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
A stunning, fine and impressive vintage French 17.67 carat citrine and 1.33 carat diamond, 18 karat yellow gold cocktail ring; part of our diverse vintage jewelry and estate jewelry collections. This stunning, fine and impressive vintage gemstone ring has been crafted in 18k yellow gold. The pierced decorated, cluster style setting displays a large oval faceted cut citrine, 18k yellow gold claw set to the center. The feature citrine is encircled by fourteen individually claw set transitional modern brilliant round cut diamonds, totalling 1.33Cts. The outer circumference of the ring is embellished with fourteen round faceted citrines, each individually four-claw set and encompassed with a yellow gold rope twist decorated border, completing the stunning cluster setting. The pierced decorated multi-stranded ring shoulders are each composed of four tapering 18ct yellow gold strands which integrate with the main setting and blend seamlessly with the hallmarked ring shank. The impressive vintage ring is hallmarked to the outer surface of the shank with the French import mark for gold (owl) and has been independently tested using state of the art technology (Niton XL2 Analyzer) and verified as 18 carat gold. This impressive vintage citrine ring...
Citrine, Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
30.92 Carats Pear Shape Golden Citrine Cocktail Ring in Yellow Gold
Located in New York, NY
A spectacular cocktail ring, featuring a 30.92 carats pear shape golden citrine with VVS clarity, set on a four prong basket. Finely made with an 18K yellow gold mounting. Size 5 US,...
Citrine, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
$1,296Sale Price / item|20% Off
6.1 CTW Big Oval Citrine Gemstone Cocktail Ring with Diamonds in 18k Yellow Gold
By VR Jewels
Located in New York, NY
6.1 CTW Big Oval Citrine Gemstone Cocktail Ring with Diamonds in 18K Gold featuring natural citrine of 6.1 carats and diamonds of 0.08 carats. The gorgeous handcrafted ring goes with...
Citrine, Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Benchmark of Palm Beach weighs in on the "Prince of Goldsmiths."
A deluxe new book explores the celebrated fifth-generation Italian jeweler’s heritage and inimitable style.
