In the years following the opening of her modest millinery shop, Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel became a pivotal designer of both fashionable casual wear and Paris haute couture as well as an icon and arbiter of 20th-century style with her bob haircut and pearls. Today vintage Chanel handbags, jackets and evening dresses are among the most sought-after clothing and accessories for fashion lovers all over the world.
The first Chanel shop was established in 1910 in Paris on rue Cambon by the young milliner Gabrielle Chanel (1883–1971), who had picked up the nickname “Coco” while working as a club singer. The boutique drew the attention of the Parisian fashion elite who popularized her wide-brimmed Chanel Modes hats. Soon she added a sportswear store in the Normandy resort town of Deauville, where Coco set the tone for her defining sense of style — traditionally masculine garments reimagined for feminine shapes, made from simple jersey fabric.
Effortless and elegant, Chanel's designs promoted comfort and grace in women’s wear that had been dominated in the previous century by complicated layers of fabric and cumbersome corsets. She followed this success with a couture house, opened in 1915 in Biarritz.
But Chanel was not born into a life of glamour. Following the death of her mother, her father left her in an orphanage where she lived until the age of 18. It was there that she learned to sew as well as appreciate the classic pairing of black and white as worn by the nuns.
In 1926, Chanel introduced her first little black dress, reclaiming a color that had once been reserved for mourning and working-class women. That same decade, she debuted her perfume, Chanel No. 5, as well as the Chanel suit with a fitted skirt, inspired by the boxy lines of men’s clothing and employing a sporty tweed.
Chanel closed her fashion operations during World War II, then returned to the industry in 1954 to design for the functional needs of modern women.
Structure and wearability endured in all of Chanel’s clothing and accessories, like the quilted leather 2.55 handbag — a 1955 update of a 1920s-era design — with its gold-chain shoulder strap that freed up a woman’s hands. The 1957 two-tone slingback pumps had a practical heel height while offering a bold statement in the black tip of the shoes. Her collarless jacket reacted against the constricting styles of Christian Dior's New Look, replacing them with a design that was timeless, an instant classic.
After Coco Chanel died in 1971, the brand underwent several changes in leadership, including fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld, who took over as artistic director in 1983. His collections for Chanel displayed his knack for synthesizing old and new, high and low. Lagerfeld revived Chanel ballet flats and thoroughly embraced the classic logo's interlocking CCs, which took the form of a clasp featured on so many of the rare Chanel bags that are much sought after today.
Vintage Karl Lagerfeld designs for Chanel dresses, coats and other clothing of the 1980s, '90s and 2000s riffed on its iconography, accenting a lexicon of Chanel-isms with tastes of the moment. And as the 1990s have become associated with styles adopted by today’s supermodels and influencers, vintage Chanel bags of the 1990s are among the most prized of the brand’s offerings.
Over the years, the company has continued to innovate, such as expanding into ready-to-wear fashion in 1978 and, in 2002, establishing a subsidiary company — Paraffection — dedicated to preserving the heritage skills of fashion artisan workshops. The House of Chanel still operates its flagship on rue Cambon in Paris, where it all began.
Browse vintage Chanel bags, evening dresses, shoes, jewelry and other clothing and accessories on 1stDibs.
CHANEL Premiere Gold Plated Black Dial Quartz Ladies Watch H0001
By Chanel
Located in New York, NY
Pre-owned. Comes with the gift box. Brand Information: Brand: CHANEL Model Name: CHANEL Premiere Model Number: H0001 Country/Region of Manufacture: Switzerland Style and Design: De...
Gold Plate
Chanel 1987 Premiere 20mm Rock Quartz & Gold-Plated Chain Wrist Watch
By Chanel
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
The Chanel 1987 Premiere 20mm Rock Quartz & Gold-Plated Chain Wrist Watch is a stunning timepiece that embodies the elegance and sophistication synonym...
CHANEL Vintage PREMIERE Watch Black Leather and 24KT Yellow Gold Plated L Size
By Chanel
Located in AUBERVILLIERS, FR
CHANEL Vintage PREMIERE Watch L Black Leather and 24KT Yellow Gold Plated These are professional photos of the actual bag offered by Luxbags. PREMIERE watch was created back in 1987 by Jacques Helleu, being the first timepiece for CHANEL. This beautiful and iconic timepiece is a must-have collector’s item, proven last the test of time. Condition: VERY GOOD Bracelet and case remains shiny with deep yellow gold from 24K gold plated characteristic. Hallmark engraving is clear and visible. Watch is in working order/functional. Note that the item is not new, minor flaws here and there expected when closely inspected. Overall the watch is in excellent vintage condition for her age. Featuring: Black octagonal watch face...
24k Gold
$19,000
W 0.03 in L 0.27 in
Vintage Chanel Quartz Premiere Yellow Gold Fashion Watch with Integral Gold Band
By Chanel
Located in Palm Beach, FL
This lovely 18K yellow gold Chanel Premiere quartz ladies wrist watch was released by the venerated house in 1987. The bold rectangular, clipped corner head measures over 1 inch in length by 3/4 inch in width. The dial is black, bears the company name at the 12 o'clock position and the word Swiss at the 6 o'clock position. The integral 18K band measures 9/16 inch wide and terminates in a flip clasp stamped CHANEL. On the inside of the clasp is stamped 750, Swiss Made, Chanel copyright, registration marks, Swiss and Chanel touch marks, and 1987. Additional touch marks are shown on the tongue of the clasp. The crystal is a high faceted mineral composition and adds greatly to the watches dramatic appearance. Trouble free and accurate timekeeping is assured by the Chanel quartz...
Quartz, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Chanel Watch. Genuine Chanel Premiere XL Ladies WristWatch. Plaque and Leather
By Chanel
Located in Port Charlotte, FL
RARE Chanel Premiere XL 1987 Womens Stainless Steel GoldPlated with Black Leather ref. Q.B. 12233 Beautiful Watch. Quartz. Works and keeps time. New Battery installed. Sapphire Ca...
Stainless Steel
Chanel Gold Première Diamond Quartz Model H0114 Ladies Watch
By Chanel
Located in New York, NY
Chanel Gold Première Diamond Quartz Model H0114 Ladies Watch. 18K yellow gold 20mm x 26mm Chanel Premiere Chaine watch featuring a quartz movement, b...
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold
$3,176
H 7.29 in Dm 0.79 in
CHANEL Première Vintage Wristwatch, Gold-Plated 20 Microns, Swiss Quartz, 1987
By Chanel
Located in CACHAN, FR
An iconic and highly collectible Chanel Première wristwatch, featuring the Maison’s signature chain-link bracelet interwoven with black leather, inspired by the legendary Chanel flap...
Gold Plate
CHANEL Vintage PREMIERE Watch Small Black Leather and 24KT Yellow Gold Plated
By Chanel
Located in AUBERVILLIERS, FR
PREMIERE watch was created back in 1987 by Jacques Helleu, being the first timepiece for CHANEL. This beautiful and iconic timepiece is a must-have collector’s item, proven last the test of time. Condition: VERY GOOD Bracelet and case remains shiny with deep yellow gold from 24K gold plated characteristic. Hallmark engraving is clear and visible. Watch is in working order/functional. Note that the item is not new, minor flaws here and there expected when closely inspected. Overall the watch is in excellent vintage condition for her age. Featuring: Black octagonal watch face...
24k Gold
$19,500
H 0.2 in W 0.63 in D 0.2 in Dm 0.79 in L 0.79 in
Chanel Première Chaîne 18K Rose Gold Diamond Bezel Watch H4411 — Complete
By Chanel
Located in Plantation, FL
Chanel Première Chaîne ladies’ wristwatch, reference H4411. Small model, 18K rose gold (beige gold) rectangular octagonal case set with approximately 56 brilliant-cut diamonds on the...
Diamond, 18k Gold, Rose Gold
CHANEL 1987 Vintage PREMIERE Watch Medium Black Leather and 24KT Yellow Gold
By Chanel
Located in AUBERVILLIERS, FR
CHANEL 1987 Vintage PREMIERE Watch Medium Black Leather and 24KT Yellow Gold Plated These are professional photos of the actual bag offered by Luxbags. PREMIERE watch was created back in 1987 by Jacques Helleu, being the first timepiece for CHANEL. This beautiful and iconic timepiece is a must-have collector’s item, proven last the test of time. Condition: VERY GOOD Bracelet and case remains shiny with deep yellow gold from 24K gold plated characteristic. 1987 hallmark engraving is clear and visible. Watch is in working order/functional. Note that the item is not new (approx. 36 years old), minor flaws here and there expected when closely inspected. Overall the watch is in very good vintage condition for her age. Light discoloration on the gold part of the strap. Featuring: Black octagonal watch face...
