The signature details that characterize vintage Norman Norell evening dresses include classically tailored silhouettes, feminine round necklines and tenderly applied beading, carefully inspected both inside and out. Pop culture icon Marilyn Monroe wore many of Norell’s classic dresses over the years. And as a young model for a Seventh Avenue clothing manufacturer, screen siren Lauren Bacall liked to scour the racks of Loehmann’s with her mother, looking for the odd piece by a famous designer like Norell.
Norell began his career in his early 20s, designing costumes for Paramount Pictures and Brooks Costume Company, as well as for esoteric vaudeville productions. The theater remained a major source of inspiration throughout his career. Often drenched in beads or sequins, a material that remained readily available despite wartime restrictions, his show-stopping mermaid gowns, a marriage of glitz and simplicity, harken back to the days of vaudeville. He continued to design these gowns until the end of his life.
Raised in a family of haberdashers, Norell was long-influenced by the cuts, fabrics and details of traditional menswear, and he sought to incorporate those concepts into his designs. In 1960, at a moment when women were not yet wearing pants to work, he made waves when he presented his then-controversial wool flannel culotte suit. Some years later, he designed a black dinner suit with a bow-tie, beating Yves Saint Laurent to the punch, and later still, he conceived a feminine version of an aviator jumpsuit.
A creature of habit, Norell stuck with many of his classic designs throughout his career, but he continued to experiment with avant-garde ideas for evening garments. This was perhaps most vividly expressed in his wild coats, runway crowd-pleasers adorned with ostrich feathers or massive red and pink flowers.
A fan of a full dirndl, Norell made skirts that ranged from delicately creased to voluminous balloons, and he frequently paired these with pleated blouses or tight turtlenecks. One of the first designers to incorporate traditional elements of sportswear into his evening attire, a typical Norell evening gown was divided into three separate colors: one for the top, one for the skirt and one for the sash. And vintage Norman Norell gowns are inherently versatile — they’re as modern today as they were decades ago. The little black dresses that Norell designed offered similar flexibility. Perfectly simple and sexy are the round necklines, which Norell introduced to declutter his dresses and allow for a more modern look.
Norell was the first American designer to have his name on a dress label and on a successful fragrance. He possessed a refined elegance and a quiet audacity that he expressed through timeless, wearable pieces boldly embellished with luxe trimmings. His work would come to redefine the American ready-to-wear industry and earn him the nickname the “American Balenciaga.” He received the inaugural Coty Award for womenswear and was the first designer inducted into the fashion industry critics’ hall of fame.
Find vintage Norman Norell day dresses, suits, jackets and other clothing on 1stDibs.
1960s Norman Norell Vintage Brown Wool Cropped Jacket
By Norman Norell
Located in Sparks, NV
Absolutely stunning construction! Vintage 1960s Norman Norell brown wool jacket with a pop up portrait collar. Fully lined in silk with front button and snap closure. Front patch poc...
Norman Norell 1960s Vintage Camel Silk + Wool Tailored Jacket
By Norman Norell
Located in Sparks, NV
Stunning vintage Norman Norell vintage 1960s camel colored wool jacket with four front patch pockets. Fully lined in gorgeous quality silk fabric. Hand stitched couture finishing th...
Rare 1960s Norman Norell Navy Blue + Ivory Vintage 60s Belted Smoking Jacket
By Norman Norell
Located in San Diego, CA
Rare historical piece of fashion from the brilliant NORMAN NORELL! Navy blue wool body, with any ivory satin shawl collar, sleeve cuffs, buttons, pockets and sash belt. Buttons are n...
Avant Garde 1990s Krizia Metallic Asymmetrical Vintage 90s Silk Skirt Suit
By Krizia
Located in San Diego, CA
Avant Garde early 90s KRIZIA asymmetrical silk skirt suit ! Features warm hues of hunter green, brown, tan and ivory throughout. Asymmetrical hem on the jacket and each collar. Singl...
2010 CELINE by PHOEBE PHILO khaki oversized coat
By Phoebe Philo, Celine
Located in San Fransisco, CA
Very rare, khaki cotton oversized coat designed by Phoebe Philo for Celine dating to resort of 2010. Labeled a French size 36, however it fits oversized. Approximate measurements: dr...
1930S Cream Metallic Wool Blend Crochet Lace Sleeved Ermine Fur Coat
Located in New York, NY
1930S Cream Metallic Wool Blend Crochet Lace Sleeved Ermine Fur Coat
S/S 1996 Gianni Versace White Graffiti Floral Medusa Button Jacket IT42
By Gianni Versace
Located in West Hollywood, CA
Presenting a cropped Gianni Versace Couture jacket designed by Gianni Versace. This button-up jacket from the Spring/Summer 1996 collection features bright neon flowers with a spray ...
Thierry Mugler x H&M Black Leather Cropped Jacket with Scarf - 2023
By Thierry Mugler
Located in London, GB
Thierry Mugler x H&M Black Leather Cropped Jacket with Scarf, 2023 This Thierry Mugler x H&M black leather cropped jacket with built-in scarf (2023) is a rare and collectible piece from the global capsule collection designed under Casey Cadwallader. Referencing Mugler’s legendary 1990s leather tailoring, this collaboration jacket reinterprets archival Mugler silhouettes in soft chrome-free leather, balancing sculptural form with modern wearability. Featuring a built-in wide scarf, hourglass waist shaping, logo-engraved buttons, and a diagonal front zipper with concealed snap, the jacket embodies Mugler’s iconic power-dressing aesthetic. Fully lined in cupro, this piece captures the spirit of archival Mugler tailoring in a limited-edition designer collaboration. DETAILS Designer: Thierry Mugler x H&M (Casey Cadwallader for Mugler) Collection Reference: Mugler H&M Capsule Collection, Spring 2023 Material: Shell: 100% Chrome-free Leather; Lining: 100% Cupro Colour: Black Silhouette: Cropped jacket with built-in scarf; sculptural hourglass waist Marked Size: EU Small / US Small Condition: Unworn condition - press sample MEASUREMENTS (LAID FLAT & closed and at rest unless otherwise noted) Bust(across underarm to underarm): 44 cm / 17.3 in ( to fit bust 88cm /34.6 inc) Shoulder to Hem: 47 cm / 18.5 in (at front - shortest measurement) 57 cm / 22.4 in (at back - longest measurement) Waist (across): 38 cm / 14.9 in (to fit waist 76cm / 29.9 in) Sleeve length: 60 cm / 23.6 in Width of attached leather scarf: 32 cm /. 12.5 in Length of attached leather scarf: 130 cm / 51.1 in PROVENANCE & STYLE NOTES This jacket recalls archival Thierry Mugler leather...
Fall 2006 Chanel Cream and Black Bouclé Jacket
By Chanel
Located in Toronto, Ontario
Fall 2006 Chanel cream and black bouclé jacket. Open front, turned collar, closing with a tiny hook at the bust. Two slit pockets trimmed in black match the jacket trim. Each sleeve ...
1970s East West Musical Instruments Rodeo Western Leather Jacket
By East West Musical Instruments Company
Located in Oakland, CA
Vintage 1970s East West Musical Instruments leather jacket, this model is called the "Rodeo". The jacket is tagged size 7. Good vintage condition with light wear MEAUSUREMENTS: S...
Gucci Openwork Lace Up Runway Jacket, 2010
By Gucci
Located in CAPELLE AAN DEN IJSSEL, ZH
An exceptional archival runway piece from Gucci circa 2010, this intricately constructed jacket embodies the house’s glamorous bohemian aesthetic of the era. Rendered in a warm ...
John Galliano Brown Suede Cropped Waistcoat with Fox Fur Trim, FW 2004
By John Galliano
Located in London, GB
▪ Brand: John Galliano ▪ Creative Director: John Galliano ▪ Collection: Fall-Winter 2004 ▪ Fabric: Suede, Fox ▪ Size: FR 38 - UK 10 - US 6 ▪ Made in: France ▪ Condition: Excellent ▪ ...
White leather jacket with beadwork and fringes GOSSAMER WINGS
Located in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FR
White leather jacket with beaded work and fringes. Shoulder pad. Button and buttonhole closure on the middle front . SIZE M
1990s Moschino Cheap and ChickColor Block Crayola Double Breasted Blazer size 44
By Moschino Cheap and Chic
Located in Capri, IT
1990s Moschino Cheap and ChickColor Block Crayola Double Breasted Blazer size 44 Amazing vintage Moschino "Cheap & Chic" color block doubled breasted blazer, in a 'crayola' theme. Ea...
$5,425
Size: IT44 - FR40 - UK12 - US8
Gianni Versace Cheetah Print Faux Fur Jacket & Dress Ensemble, FW 1994
By Gianni Versace
Located in London, GB
A Gianni Versace jacket and dress ensemble from the 1990s made for the 'Versus' line. The swing jacket is double breasted and fastens with th...
Sold
Size: Best fits S, see measurements
Norman Norell 1960s Black Belted Jacket with Statement Collar
By Norman Norell
Located in San Francisco, CA
Norman Norell 1960s black belted jacket with oversize pilgrim collar, princess seams, and double breasted button front. Six large plastic buttons at front and three smaller buttons a...
Norell Camel Hair Jacket with Sequined Interior
By Norman Norell
Located in New York, NY
Norman Norell, camel hair, wool, collarless jacket having 4 patch pockets Two at the bust, and 2 at the hip. Interior of the jacket is encrusted with gold tone tiny paillettes. Jacke...
Norman Norell Wool Blazer with Braided Trim
By Norman Norell
Located in New York, NY
Norman Norell, camel tone, wool Blazer having black trim detail, a single button closure, and notched collar. Flap side pockets have black trim as well.
Norman Norell Couture Cream Wool Jacket circa 1970
By Norman Norell
Located in University City, MO
Norman Norell Couture cream wool jacket c 1970 The chic retro jacket is designed structured cream color wool Adorned with six large white resin but...
1960's Norell Shocking Pink Wool Pea Coat
By Norman Norell
Located in Toronto, Ontario
1960's Norman Norell shocking pink wool double breasted pea coat. An amazing example of Norell's talent with simple classic shapes. The pink rhinestone buttons, the heavily stitched ...
1960's Norman Norell Black Wool Jacket with Rhinestone Trim
By Norman Norell
Located in Toronto, Ontario
Fabulous 1960's black wool jacket trimmed in silver rhinestones. Open front with flat front pockets and bracelet length sleeves. In excellent vintage condition, minor restoration has...
Norman Norell Gold Beaded and Embroidered Jacket
By Norman Norell
Located in New Hope, PA
Inspired by a classic cable knit cardigan sweater, this elegant jacket is an amazing example of beadwork and hand embroidery. The knit two, purl two borders are done in sequins and c...
Norell Diamante and Sable Trimmed Bolero
By Norman Norell
Located in New York, NY
Bright orange wool crepe hand embroidered with hundreds of mirror glass discs similar to sequins. Sable trimmed cuffs, collar and hem. Luxury staple from Am...
Smart Norman Norell Tweed Cape and Matching Skirt
By Norman Norell
Located in Gresham, OR
A smart tailored 2-piece day ensemble from Norman Norell is simple and stylish. Oatmeal and brown tweed cape with arm slits and pockets. Matching pencil ...
Norman Norell Wool Jacket
By Norman Norell
Located in New Hope, PA
Norman Norell chose a gorgeous shade of turquoise blue wool for this jacket. The style is reminiscent of an artists smock. The generous collar, cuffed sleeves and rounded side vent...